2012 Santenay Clos des Gatsulards

As usual, my tasting session at Jadot encompassed a dizzying array of wines. Although he only took over formally for Jacques Lardière in 2013 , winemaker Frédéric Barnier appears totally calm and settled into his role. Transitions are never easy, but Jadot seems to have managed this step of the process seamlessly. It's virtually impossible to generalize about a vintage at Jadot when the wines cover so many appellations, so readers should take these comments as broad brushstrokes that find more focus within the individual reviews. Overall, 2012 is very much a black fruit vintage at Jadot. By comparison, both 2009 and 2011 were brighter, while the 2010s are mostly marked by their energy. As was the case throughout the region, yields were affected dramatically because of poor weather conditions. Nowhere is that more apparent than in the wines of the Côte de Beaune, many of which are unusually big and burly. The weather also claimed several well-known bottlings here, including the Beaune Avaux, Toussaints and Chouacheux, Pommard Epenots and Grands Epenots, and Latricières-Chambertin, none of which were produced. In 2012, my preference is for the wines of the northern Côte de Nuits in the Jadot range.