2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

This is among the most reliable sources for classic Chateauneuf du Pape.Andre Brunel and with his ubiquitous enologist Philippe Cambie (whom I ran into in three different cellars in as many days) are producing wines that could hardly fail to please any enophile.Les Cailloux is especially impressive in the '03 and '04 vintages, but for balance and elegance rather than any excesses or drama.The 2004s, in particular, are suave, bright and unadorned.Oak here is treated as a vessel, not a flavoring.As Brunel described it:"We don't need the sweetness of oak on grenache; it's sweet enough on its own."To that end, the grenache here is raised solely in stainless steel, with only the mourvedre and syrah aged in barrique.(Notes on the Feraud-Brunel wines, a negociant venture between Brunel and Laurence Feraud of Domaine du Pegau, appear later in this issue.)(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)