2017 Brunello di Montalcino

The Le Potazzine winery is located in the northeast of Montalcino, an extremely unique location with its own stamp of terroir. Looking out across a valley at the town center gives you a perspective of the elevation here, at around 500 meters. The soils as well are very distinct, being well-draining and rocky, with a high iron content that gives them a reddish hue. While the Le Potazzine winery is typically associated with these high elevations and cooler terroir, it’s only three of their five hectares that are located around the winery. The other parcel is located in Sant’Angelo in Colle, La Torre, in the south with its lower elevations and alluvial soils, which is the “secret” to the balance that this winery is able to achieve vintage after vintage--essentially finding the perfect blend of the two. That said, I can’t help but stress how well this estate does in warm vintages; and I believe they see it too, considering that of the only four Riservas they’ve ever made, the most recent vintages chosen were 2011 and 2015. Gigliola Gorelli runs the estate with her two daughters, Sonia and Viola. Although only recently certified, this family has farmed organically since the beginning. They follow a no-nonsense, true-to-tradition regiment in the cellar, using native yeasts, long macerations and aging in 30-50-hectoliter Slavonian oak. It’s important to note that the Rosso comes from their Brunello vines. No matter how pretty they are on release, a taste of the 2010 during my recent visit solidified my belief in the Rosso’s staying power. It was also during this visit that Gigliola Gorelli poured the 2011 and 2015 Riservas, two wines that blend potent yet pure fruit with epic structure, yet they still come across and ethereal and refined. Frankly, I didn’t think it was possible for Le Potazzine to outdo their 2015 Brunello, yet they truly have. The only sad part is that only 3,000 bottles were produced. As for the 2017 Brunello, well, what did I say about warm vintages and Le Potazzine? This continues to be one of Montalcino’s top producers year after year.