2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The Le Potazzine Brunello is an unqualified success of the 2020 vintage. This estate excels in warm growing seasons, and 2020 played right into their hand. Gigliola Gorelli and her two daughters, Sofia and Viola, crafted a cool-toned, classically structured wine with fantastic depth and balance. Gigliola Gorelli explained, “The vineyard was our garden in 2020. We were locked down here together and spent an enormous amount of time manicuring the vines.” Le Potazzine benefits from a higher elevation, situated at around 510 meters in the northwest of Montalcino. However, they also have a small parcel of vines near Sant’Angelo in Colle in the south, which can help balance the blend depending on the vintage. The family recently purchased a new vineyard, planted in 2020. These vines are at an even higher elevation—possibly the highest planted in Montalcino—above the Il Palazzone estate. Gorelli hasn’t yet decided on the ultimate destination for this fruit, but in my opinion, any way to have more Le Potazzine to go around is a positive thing for collectors and lovers of this estate. Readers should also be on the lookout for the 2019 Riserva in 2025. The most recent Le Pottazine Riserva was the 2015, and before that, 2011, 2007, 2006 and 2004. Le Potazzine carefully considers the best years to make a Riserva, and they produce it in a completely traditional style, with extended natural fermentations and ample time in large oak barrels. I love the way the Riserva maintains energy and verve despite its long barrel aging. Unfortunately, it’s only produced in tiny quantities.

The Le Potazzine winery is located in the northeast of Montalcino, an extremely unique location with its own stamp of terroir. Looking out across a valley at the town center gives you a perspective of the elevation here, at around 500 meters. The soils as well are very distinct, being well-draining and rocky, with a high iron content that gives them a reddish hue. While the Le Potazzine winery is typically associated with these high elevations and cooler terroir, it’s only three of their five hectares that are located around the winery. The other parcel is located in Sant’Angelo in Colle, La Torre, in the south with its lower elevations and alluvial soils, which is the “secret” to the balance that this winery is able to achieve vintage after vintage--essentially finding the perfect blend of the two. That said, I can’t help but stress how well this estate does in warm vintages; and I believe they see it too, considering that of the only four Riservas they’ve ever made, the most recent vintages chosen were 2011 and 2015. Gigliola Gorelli runs the estate with her two daughters, Sonia and Viola. Although only recently certified, this family has farmed organically since the beginning. They follow a no-nonsense, true-to-tradition regiment in the cellar, using native yeasts, long macerations and aging in 30-50-hectoliter Slavonian oak. It’s important to note that the Rosso comes from their Brunello vines. No matter how pretty they are on release, a taste of the 2010 during my recent visit solidified my belief in the Rosso’s staying power. It was also during this visit that Gigliola Gorelli poured the 2011 and 2015 Riservas, two wines that blend potent yet pure fruit with epic structure, yet they still come across and ethereal and refined. Frankly, I didn’t think it was possible for Le Potazzine to outdo their 2015 Brunello, yet they truly have. The only sad part is that only 3,000 bottles were produced. As for the 2017 Brunello, well, what did I say about warm vintages and Le Potazzine? This continues to be one of Montalcino’s top producers year after year.