2000 Côtes-du-Rhône

Most Chateauneuf lovers are no doubt aware of thex000D tragic death in a car accident last March of the talented Jean-Denis Vacheron,x000D who had revitalized this estate since taking over vinification in 1996 (Clos dux000D Caillou had previously sold its juice to negociants). Vacheron's wife Sylvie Pouizin-Vacheron appears to be committedx000D to continuing the work that Jean-Denis had begun, and has hired Bruno Gaspard,x000D formerly of Chateau du Trignon in Gigondas, as winemaker. During my time with Gaspard, he made itx000D clear that he will pick up where Jean-Denis left off. Gaspard told me that the 2001 harvest brought extraordinarilyx000D ripe fruit, including quite a bit with potential alcohol in the 16% range. The strength of the raw materials allowed ax000D bit more pigeage to be done, as well as some delestage [a process whereby thex000D juice is drained from the tank, then poured back over the solids], and some ofx000D the sugar fermentations went on well into December. Gaspard planned to bottle these unusually powerful wines in Aprilx000D and May of 2003, a couple months later than usual here. (A Peter Vezan Selection; imported by Northx000D Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Import!, Madison, WI; and Dionysos Imports,x000D Lorton, VA)

Jean-Denis Vacheron is now making some of the ripest, richest examples of Chateauneuf du Pape in a Burgundian style. Certainly, when it comes to his habit of minimal racking and his preference for new or newish barrels, Vacheron is a Burgundian type. His technique has evolved quickly since he began vinifying in 1996, and here is one domain where the '99s seem every bit as strong as the superb '98s. Vacheron now routinely harvests both syrah and grenache in surmaturite "because I have to wait until the interplanted mourvedre is ripe enough." But he is still obsessed with maintaining fresh acidity, which requires great precision in harvesting. "The alcohol/acidity moment is critical," he notes, adding that "1999 brought my best acidity to date." Vacheron's wines entice with a perfume of dark fruits, minerals, spices, flowers and game. (A Peter Vezan Selection; imported by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Import!, Madison, WI; and Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA)