2018 Brunello di Montalcino

As in the past, this year Le Chiuse presented both their Annata, the finessed and understated 2018 Brunello, as well as a 10-year late release of their classic 2013 Riserva Diecianni. The Magnelli family now tends to vineyards originally planted using massal selection from clones specifically picked by Tancredi Biondi-Santi. The vineyards span across the north hill, between the town of Montalcino and Montosoli, averaging around 330 meters, with soils that are a unique mix of schist, rocks and fossils over a water-retaining layer of clay only two meters below. Father and son team Nicolò and Lorenzo Magnelli currently run the estate based on tradition and always with an open mind to the future. During my conversation, we spoke in detail about 2018 and the vintages that followed. Lorenzo Magnelli describes 2018 as having a cool and wet spring and warm summer without any heat spikes, followed by cooler weather and rain that lasted into September. These conditions made vineyard work extremely important to counter the onset of mold and help grapes reach proper concentrations. In addition, the juice was treated delicately in the cellar to “enhance the elegance” and then refined only in large neutral barrels. However, production was down by 15%, but the resulting wine is a beautiful translation of terroir and vintage character. While a bit closed aromatically today, I expect amazing things down the road. As for the future and the new normal of dry and hot conditions, Lorenzo Magnelli believes that the biodynamic practices they now use will help improve the health of the vines and soil to combat hydric stress. Magnelli is also looking to use older, large barrels and concrete tanks to maintain freshness in the wines. Le Chiuse is both geographically positioned and managed to continue to be one of Montalcino’s top producers through the foreseeable future.