2014 Cesanese del Piglio Priore Mozzatta

One of the most exciting estates of Lazio, this Cesanese specialist turns out a bevy of very fine wines (though I think owner Piero Maciocca is a little too enamored with oak at times) that are amongst the very best the region has to offer. The estate began life in 2005, but Maciocca’s father and grandfather made wine, so young Piero grew up with a natural love for the countryside and the wines of his area. He farms organically and applies many biodynamic principles in his viticulture. He makes a white wine from the local Passerina variety which is quite good, a Rosato that thrills me less and delightful Cesanese wines mostly made from old vines (even 80 years old+); only the entry level Vicinali is made from bought grapes, but all are delicious, precise and very refreshing. The Vignali and Mozzatta crus are especially ageworthy.