2018 Savennières Roche aux Moines Clos de la Bergerie

Nicolas Joly, and his revolutionary approach to winegrowing and winemaking, is synonymous with both Savennières specifically and Loire Chenin Blanc in general. Coulée de Serrant, Joly’s monopole 7-hectare vineyard, is one of the few appellations in France owned by a single estate (the other two being Romanée Conti and Château-Grillet). It was first planted in 1130 by Cistercian monks. The vines here are mostly 35 to 40 years old, with the oldest planted in 1935. But Joly also holds the 3-hectare Clos de la Bergerie in the Roche aux Moines AOC. Joly’s wines can be big and powerful — almost hedonistic — nudging up to 15% abv. He doesn’t shy away from botrytis, like his neighbors at Domaine du Closel or Roche aux Moines. “Some people think Savennières should be austere,” he says. “But I disagree.”