2017 Riesling Niersteiner Hipping Grosses Gewächs

This estate began picking non-Riesling grapes on September 5, 2017 – the earliest start in its history – and at least some Riesling followed not far behind. The top sites, though, were able to hang well into October. Carolin Gillot reported a greater need to cull botrytis than at her husband’s estate, Battenfeld-Spanier, in southern Rheinhessen; but along the way some noble rot was also selected, making possible two site-specific Auslesen. Gillot’s vintage 2017 Grosse Gewächse – highly impressive in their way – tend toward the sort of youthful austerity and sublimation of fruit character prized by so many of today’s Rheinhessen growers (and presumably by their customers as well). But what especially delighted me about this collection is its unprecedentedly high, consistent quality at the generic dry Riesling level. As usual, I unfortunately could not make time to taste this estate’s multiple Pinot Noir offerings, nor its Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. (For more about Kühling-Gillot, including its recent expansion and stylistic explorations, consult my reports on its 2015s and 2016s. Gillot and Spanier’s ambitious plans for late-release offerings will extend to the wines of Kühling-Gillot as well as those of sister estate Battenfeld-Spanier. Details can be found under my introduction to coverage of the latter.)