1988 Vintage (Magnum)
$269 (2003)
France
Reims
Champagne
Sparkling White
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay (2006 vintage)
00
1988
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2006
2021 - 2041
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2006
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2004
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2003
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2003
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2003
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My most recent visit to Krug was also the most memorable, as I had a chance to sit in on a tasting of the 2013 vins clairs with the entire team. For more on that tasting, readers might want to refer to my preview of the 2013 vintage. It is also great to see Krug embracing a more open, transparent culture with consumers. A few years ago, Krug launched their ID Code, which give consumers the ability to get quite a bit of information on the house's Champagnes through the Krug website, and now with the new Krug app for smartphones. Krug has decided to release their 2003 Vintage ahead of the 2002.
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2002
2017 - 2037
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Readers will find much to admire in these new releases from Krug. Specifically, the Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition is off the charts. Chef de Caves Eric Lebel and his team deserve all the recognition they will surely receive for this superb Champagne. Krug's decision to give consumers technical information on their wines, most notably the multi-vintage Grande Cuvée, is one of the very best decisions this historic house has ever made. For years, the top brass believed consumers were not interested in details like the base vintage. Today, Krug uses the Grande Cuvée as an introduction, especially for years in which vintage Champagnes were also made, such as 2002. Those comparisons are, of course, fascinating. Moreover, distinguishing releases of the Grande Cuvée clearly creates a level of anticipation that did not exist in the past.
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2002
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After decades of releasing Grande Cuvées with generic labels that told the consumer absolutely nothing about the wine in the bottle, Krug has stepped up their game in meaningful way. The Krug ID, introduced a few years ago, gives consumers a host of details about the wines, including information about base vintages for MV Champagnes. More recently, Krug has begun releasing the Grande Cuvée in numbered editions, which is a brilliant idea that gives added value to each release. The 158th Edition, based on the 2002 vintage, is one of the highlights in this lineup. Only the very fortunate will be able to afford the 2002 Clos du Mesnil, but it is a truly special and delicious Champagne. The 2002 Vintage, on the other hand, is far less convincing.
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2000
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My most recent visit to Krug was also the most memorable, as I had a chance to sit in on a tasting of the 2013 vins clairs with the entire team. For more on that tasting, readers might want to refer to my preview of the 2013 vintage. It is also great to see Krug embracing a more open, transparent culture with consumers. A few years ago, Krug launched their ID Code, which give consumers the ability to get quite a bit of information on the house's Champagnes through the Krug website, and now with the new Krug app for smartphones. Krug has decided to release their 2003 Vintage ahead of the 2002.
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2000
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Sadly, there are no new releases from Krug this year. For more background on the estate, readers might enjoy revisiting our 2013 Spring Preview. It's great to see that Krug has added ID codes to the Grande Cuvee. The two versions I tasted for this article are a great example of the role disgorgement dates can have in shaping the drinking experience.
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2000
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There are no new vintage wines from Krug, but is always interesting to revisit these wines as they develop so much over time. The biggest news at Krug is the addition of ID Codes to the NV wines, which gives readers the opportunity to get more information on the wines (including disgorgement dates) through Krug's website. It would be great to see more of the larger houses follow suit.
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2000
2013 - 2030
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I tasted a wide range of wines during my visit to Krug this year, including several versions of the Grande Cuvée that have temporary proprietary names meant to distinguish each release, including the ‘Equilibre' (1998 base) and ‘Savoir Faire' (2001 base). The wines still don't carry disgorgement dates (and probably never) will, but this is a step forward. Yes, the corks have a code that indicates an approximate disgorgement date range, but that is of no use until a bottle is opened. Still, the proprietary name concept is clever, unique and does achieve the purpose of distinguishing each release of the Grande Cuvée. I hope Krug makes the decision to market the next release of their Grande Cuvée with a proprietary name.
00
1998
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1998
2013 - 2038
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There are no new vintage wines from Krug, but is always interesting to revisit these wines as they develop so much over time. The biggest news at Krug is the addition of ID Codes to the NV wines, which gives readers the opportunity to get more information on the wines (including disgorgement dates) through Krug's website. It would be great to see more of the larger houses follow suit.
00
1998
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1998
2013 - 2020
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My visit to Krug earlier this year was fascinating, as I had a chance to taste a number of 2009s and reserve wines. A tank sample of the 2009 Clos du Mesnil was one of the most exciting, viscerally thrilling wines of the trip, and remained etched on my mind for several weeks. I also had a chance to glance over newly found, hand-written original records that document the exact village breakdown of all the grapes Krug purchased in each vintage going back to 1928. This year I tasted a number of fabulous wines from bottle. Unfortunately I can't include my impressions on Krug's NV Champagnes because of the house's insistence on not providing disgorgement dates for those wines. I was reminded of the importance of this information when I tasted a fabulous, utterly spellbinding bottle of the NV Rosé. It was a truly beautiful Champagne, but owing to its recent disgorgement it needed at least a few years on the cork. Of course Krug gives a general indication of the disgorgement dates for their wines on the corks, but by that time, readers may have opened a bottle that needs more bottle age. Without this information it is impossible to give readers any reliable indication of when the house's NV wines might start drinking well. With a retail price over $300 a bottle, opening a bottle of Krug's Rosé can be a very expensive learning experience. Krug fans will want to keep an eye out for my upcoming article on Clos du Mesnil, featuring complete notes back to the inaugural 1979.
00
1998
2013 - 2028
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My visit to Krug in November was illuminating, as I spent several hours tasting through a number of 2008 vins claires and reserve wines with Director of the Maison Olivier Krug and Director of Œnology Eric Lebel. Although Krug ages its young wines exclusively in French oak barrels, these wines were remarkably pure and transparent; suggesting that much of the signature Krug toastiness may come from the extended period the wines spend on their lees rather than from the oak. Over the yeas many of the most monumental, mind-bending Champagnes I have had have emerged from these cellars in Reims. Krug boasts an extraordinarily rich history along with a superb track record. In a recent tasting that included most, if not all, of the top 1996s, the Krug Vintage and Clos du Mesnil were at the very top of the pack. Along with making profound wines, under the direction of the charming Olivier Krug this venerable estate has pushed the boundaries on pricing to levels never seen before. The newest wine from Krug is the 100% Pinot Noir Clos d'Ambonnay. Sadly, that wine is priced for billionaires, not mortals. Krug does not provide disgorgement dates for its wines, something which is a serious shortcoming considering the lofty prices these bottles fetch. The corks are stamped with a code which can be traced back to a disgorgement lot and date, but that will be of little use to consumers once bottles are opened. It would be great to see Krug take a leadership position among the region's grands marques and add disgorgement dates to its labels.
00
1998
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00
1996
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This unforgettable evening was an auction lot built around an all-access pass to wines from my personal cellar paired with dinner donated by Saison that was sold at the most recent Festa del Barolo to support children’s pediatrics at the Mount Sinai Hospital. I would like to extend a huge ‘thank you!’ to our patrons for their extraordinary generosity. This dinner raised $55,000, 100% of which went to charity.
00
1996
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This wine was tasted informally at the Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, held in April 2015 at the Bouley Test Kitchen in New York City.
00
1996
2014 - 2026
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This wine was part of a retrospective tasting 1996 Champagne – For The Ages.
00
1996
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The best 1996 Champagnes remain epic, benchmark wines. From magnum, they are especially thrilling.
00
1996
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This wine was tasted over dinner at the 9th Annual Wine Dinner and Auction to Benefit The Mount Sinai Hospital in February 2012.
00
1996
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This complete vertical of Krug's Clos du Mesnil was one of the most amazing tastings I have ever attended. The event was organized by my New York tasting group and was important enough to attract Olivier Krug, who added his invaluable commentary to the wines. I am not sure Krug himself had ever tasted so many vintages side by side in one setting. The wines were tasted in thematic flights rather than in strict chronological order, which is how I have listed them here. The 1979, 1988 and 1996 form the triumvirate of the truly eternal, epic Clos du Mesnils, but there were many, many fabulous wines in this tasting. We finished with a look at the estate's other 1996s, plus the 1995 Clos d'Ambonnay, a wine that continues to grow in bottle.
Few estates in Champagne are more closely identified with the art of blending than Krug. It is not unusual for Krug to serve their multi-vintage Grande Cuvée – the winery's largest production and least expensive wine – after all of the heavy weights in their lineup. Krug's Vintage Champagne is also built on the concept of blending. I have seen the house's records of purchased grapes going back to the 1940s, and it is amazing to observe, even then, the number of villages from which Krug sourced fruit. For those reasons, it was quite a surprise when Krug released their first single-vineyard Champagne, the 1979 Clos du Mesnil, in 1986. The project had been so secret and closely held that only a few insiders knew of the existence of the wine prior to its commercial release. Since then, Clos du Mesnil has rightly established itself as one of the world's most iconic wines.
The Krug family purchased Clos du Mesnil in 1971. Krug had sourced fruit from other vineyards in Mesnil for years, but had never even known of the existence of the Clos until the property was put up for sale, which is hard to imagine in today's world of satellite imaging and technology. The early vintages from Clos du Mesnil were used for the Grande Cuvée. Like all wines at Krug, the parcels from Clos du Mesnil were vinified and aged separately. Over the course of the years, Krug noticed that the wines from the Clos were unique, and in 1979 bottled a trial version of Clos du Mesnil as an experiment. It was the first single-vineyard wine Krug had ever produced. The wine was released in 1986 and the rest, as they say, is history. Since then Clos du Mesnil has become the crown jewel in the estate's lineup. It may get some competition from the more recently introduced Clos d'Ambonnay, which is the Pinot Noir version of Clos du Mesnil.
Clos du Mesnil measures 1.84 hectares and is farmed and vinified in five or six separate parcels, some of which may be excluded from the final assemblage. Part of what makes the Clos unique is the walls themselves, which act to preserve heat and protect the vineyard from the elements, never a bad thing in a cold region like Champagne. Clos du Mesnil is maintained as a separate winemaking facility that handles all of the wines made in the Clos, plus other wines from the village of Mesnil that are vinified by Krug. Oenologist Julie Cavil oversees the small-scaled, artisan level production at the winery.
Krug only releases Clos du Mesnil in extraordinary years. Recently the estate made the decision not to release the 1999 after it had been fully aged and disgorged. The labels were printed, and the wine was ready to go, but at the last minute Krug decided the vintage was not worthy of their rightly lofty standard of quality. Based on the bottle I tasted a few months ago, I have to agree. The next Clos du Mesnil is the 2000, which is scheduled to be released in November 2011.
00
1996
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Over the last few months I have had the chance to revisit a number of Champagnes from the celebrated 1996 vintage. My first retrospective on the 1996s, published last year, found many of the wines in great shape. Today, only a year later, a number of bottles are finally beginning to show hints of their ultimate potential. Many of these wines have been on the market for some time but only now, fourteen years after the harvest, is it possible to taste a complete range of the tête-de-cuvées from all of the major houses.
00
1996
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This wine was tasted during collector Bruce Fingeret's birthday party, July 2010
00
1996
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My tasting this year with Olivier Krug was fascinating as I had the rare opportunity to taste all of the house's 1996's side by side, a comparison that yielded very interesting results.
00
1996
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This magical evening continued into a delicious dinner blessed with a stunning array of wines. The menu, prepared by Grissini Restaurant and served al fresco, was simple, tasty and very nicely done, as always.
00
1996
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1996 remains one of the great modern-day vintages for Champagne. The wines possess a combination of bright acidity and high sugars that is extremely rare. The best 1996 Champagnes are bold, racy and exuberant, in both absolute and relative terms, something that has also come across in numerous recent tastings, including verticals of Dom Pérignon, Cristal, Krug and Dom Ruinart. For all of these houses 1996 is one of the more powerful, extroverted vintages of the last 15 or so years. To be sure, the vintage also has its critics. Those who are skeptical of the vintage claim that some producers harvested too early and that a number of wines possess excessively austere and lean personalities that will never soften. My experience with the Champagnes below and others, however, has mostly been extremely positive and I am convinced the best wines have enough balance of fruit and acidity to age gracefully, in some cases for decades.
00
1996
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My visit to Krug in November was illuminating, as I spent several hours tasting through a number of 2008 vins claires and reserve wines with Director of the Maison Olivier Krug and Director of Œnology Eric Lebel. Although Krug ages its young wines exclusively in French oak barrels, these wines were remarkably pure and transparent; suggesting that much of the signature Krug toastiness may come from the extended period the wines spend on their lees rather than from the oak. Over the yeas many of the most monumental, mind-bending Champagnes I have had have emerged from these cellars in Reims. Krug boasts an extraordinarily rich history along with a superb track record. In a recent tasting that included most, if not all, of the top 1996s, the Krug Vintage and Clos du Mesnil were at the very top of the pack. Along with making profound wines, under the direction of the charming Olivier Krug this venerable estate has pushed the boundaries on pricing to levels never seen before. The newest wine from Krug is the 100% Pinot Noir Clos d'Ambonnay. Sadly, that wine is priced for billionaires, not mortals. Krug does not provide disgorgement dates for its wines, something which is a serious shortcoming considering the lofty prices these bottles fetch. The corks are stamped with a code which can be traced back to a disgorgement lot and date, but that will be of little use to consumers once bottles are opened. It would be great to see Krug take a leadership position among the region's grands marques and add disgorgement dates to its labels.
00
1996
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This wine was tasted as a part of wine collector Bruce Fingeret's 50th Birthday Party, July 2008.
00
1996
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00
1995
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This recent charity dinner at Saison was easily the finest meal I have had there and also one of my best dinners of 2018, period. The evening came together as a charity lot that was auctioned off at the most recent La Festa del Barolo to benefit children’s oncology at The Mount Sinai Hospital. Saison donated dinner and I contributed the wines from my cellar. It was a spectacular night of food, wine and conversation, all for a great cause.
00
1995
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This wine was tasted over dinner at the 9th Annual Wine Dinner and Auction to Benefit The Mount Sinai Hospital in February 2012.
00
1995
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My visit to Krug earlier this year was fascinating, as I had a chance to taste a number of 2009s and reserve wines. A tank sample of the 2009 Clos du Mesnil was one of the most exciting, viscerally thrilling wines of the trip, and remained etched on my mind for several weeks. I also had a chance to glance over newly found, hand-written original records that document the exact village breakdown of all the grapes Krug purchased in each vintage going back to 1928. This year I tasted a number of fabulous wines from bottle. Unfortunately I can't include my impressions on Krug's NV Champagnes because of the house's insistence on not providing disgorgement dates for those wines. I was reminded of the importance of this information when I tasted a fabulous, utterly spellbinding bottle of the NV Rosé. It was a truly beautiful Champagne, but owing to its recent disgorgement it needed at least a few years on the cork. Of course Krug gives a general indication of the disgorgement dates for their wines on the corks, but by that time, readers may have opened a bottle that needs more bottle age. Without this information it is impossible to give readers any reliable indication of when the house's NV wines might start drinking well. With a retail price over $300 a bottle, opening a bottle of Krug's Rosé can be a very expensive learning experience. Krug fans will want to keep an eye out for my upcoming article on Clos du Mesnil, featuring complete notes back to the inaugural 1979.
00
1995
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park in June, 2009.
00
1995
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My visit to Krug in November was illuminating, as I spent several hours tasting through a number of 2008 vins claires and reserve wines with Director of the Maison Olivier Krug and Director of Œnology Eric Lebel. Although Krug ages its young wines exclusively in French oak barrels, these wines were remarkably pure and transparent; suggesting that much of the signature Krug toastiness may come from the extended period the wines spend on their lees rather than from the oak. Over the yeas many of the most monumental, mind-bending Champagnes I have had have emerged from these cellars in Reims. Krug boasts an extraordinarily rich history along with a superb track record. In a recent tasting that included most, if not all, of the top 1996s, the Krug Vintage and Clos du Mesnil were at the very top of the pack. Along with making profound wines, under the direction of the charming Olivier Krug this venerable estate has pushed the boundaries on pricing to levels never seen before. The newest wine from Krug is the 100% Pinot Noir Clos d'Ambonnay. Sadly, that wine is priced for billionaires, not mortals. Krug does not provide disgorgement dates for its wines, something which is a serious shortcoming considering the lofty prices these bottles fetch. The corks are stamped with a code which can be traced back to a disgorgement lot and date, but that will be of little use to consumers once bottles are opened. It would be great to see Krug take a leadership position among the region's grands marques and add disgorgement dates to its labels.
00
1995
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00
1990
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This magical evening continued into a delicious dinner blessed with a stunning array of wines. The menu, prepared by Grissini Restaurant and served al fresco, was simple, tasty and very nicely done, as always.
00
1990
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00
1989
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This wine was tasted during collector Bruce Fingeret's birthday party, July 2010
00
1989
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This wine was tasted during a charity dinner at Daniel in New York City, November 2007.
00
1989
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00
1989
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00
1988
2018 - 2038
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This intimate dinner with a small group of close friends came together literally at the last minute. Getting a reservation for six on a Saturday night in LA with no notice is not exactly the easiest thing to do, but I was thrilled we were able to get in.
00
1988
2016 - 2026
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The private dining room of David Chang’s Momofuku Ko was the site of this recent birthday dinner. The food and wine were both terrific, but as always, it’s the people who make an event special. Over the years, this group has tasted some pretty special wines together. That was once again the case on this night. Sommeliers John Slover and Chase Sinzers did a fabulous job keeping up with the pace and ensuring each wine was served at the optimal temperature.
00
1988
2013 - 2023
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Sadly, there are no new releases from Krug this year. For more background on the estate, readers might enjoy revisiting our 2013 Spring Preview. It's great to see that Krug has added ID codes to the Grande Cuvee. The two versions I tasted for this article are a great example of the role disgorgement dates can have in shaping the drinking experience.
00
1988
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This wine was tasted over dinner at a friend's house.
00
1988
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00
1988
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00
1985
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This wine was tasted over dinner at a friend's house.
00
1982
2017 - 2020
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Held this past February, La Festa del Barolo brought together producers, sommeliers and wine lovers from around the world for a memorable weekend of wine, food and conversation. Guests shared an unreal number of rare and collectible bottles at the Gala Dinner, while the 2012 Barolo Masterclass provided a great opportunity for attendees to taste new releases while hearing directly from the growers in an intimate and highly interactive setting. Del Posto proprietors Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich and their team pulled out all the stops to help make La Festa del Barolo a great success. Jeff Porter, Wine Director for the Batali & Bastianich group, and a group of this country’s top sommeliers did an exceptional job with wine service at all three events.
00
1982
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This wine was tasted during La Festa del Barolo's Gala Dinner in April 2013.
"The spirit of sharing and camaraderie the world’s best wines inspire was in evidence at La Festa del Barolo, where I was fortunate to enjoy a range of emotionally moving, transcendental wines." Antonio Galloni
00
1982
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This wine was tasted over at The Modern, New York, in late December 2013 as part of a charity dinner to support the Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City.
00
1979
2015 - 2025
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00
1979
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Marea in early 2014.
00
1979
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Alto in New York City, April 2008.
00
1976
2015 - 2018
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00
1976
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This wine was tasted over dinner at the Third Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner in November 2009.
00
1976
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The first [Italian Wine Weekend[ (http://vinous.com/articles/italian-wine-weekend-at-del-posto-nov-2009) was held in New York City on November 12-14, 2009. The event, loosely based on Daniel Johnnes’s La Paulée, was held to benefit the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy. As might be expected for any event in its first year, there were some rough spots, but both dinners I attended at Del Posto were packed. The charity auction raised almost $400,000 for the University, a great achievement by any measure. I am particularly grateful to the generous bidders who purchased the two dinner lots I was involved with. I hope the organizers, participating restaurants and wineries will make Italian Wine Weekend an annual tradition.
00
1976
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These wines were tasted over dinner at Babbo Restaurant in New York during June of 2009.
00
1971
2018 - 2040
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Over the years, I have got to know Hong Kong well and made many friends within its thriving wine scene. And it’s a wine scene like no other. Weekly mouthwatering dinners, verticals and winemaker-tutored retrospectives create an almost frenzied atmosphere on libation, only possible here where there is such a concentration of collectors within a 15-minute drive of each other.
00
1966
2014 - 2014
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This wine was featured in Cellar Favorites, a new column that features notes on older wines that don’t necessarily fit into the themes of one of our major articles.
00
1959
2020 - 2035
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00
1942
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Bruce the Returner. Airplane Eddie. Big Boy. The Hillbilly. King Angry. Wheels. You could be forgiven for mistaking this colorful cast of characters for something right out of Vince McMahon’s World Wrestling Entertainment. But no, these are some of the world’s most passionate collectors, all of whom gathered in New Jersey recently to celebrate the birthday of Bruce the Returner.
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