2004 Pinot Noir 4-Barrel

I enjoyed my tasting with Mike Kosta and Dan Browne, two self-described "ex-restaurant guys" who complain that they now have to pay for their wines. The pair specialize in a growing array of chunky, fruit-driven pinots that impress for their sheer ripeness and user-friendliness. Unlike many of their peers, Kosta and Browne have few pretensions as winemakers:"We're making wines to drink within one to five years after they're released," explained Kosta, who is the designated talker for the duo. "We'll add water, or acidify . . . anything we feel will result in better wines. We don't mind making chemistry-class wines. "The pair consider the 2004s to have more density, grip and focus than their 2003s, which they describe as bigger and rounder. But sugars were high in both years-in the high 14s and low 15s in 2004. Browne made it clear, though, that they don't like to vinify raisins. "We certainly prefer to pick before the grapes dehydrate," he told me, "as we did in 2004. "Most of the wines I sampled showed liqueur-like ripeness without coming off as cooked.