2014 The Fimasaurus

This is a striking set of wines from John and Maggie Kongsgaard, and their son Alex, who continues to take on a greater role at the estate. I found a bit more textural lift and airiness in these wines than in the past, the Chardonnays in particular. It's too soon to know if the slightly different feel to these wines is a reflection of progressively warmer, earlier vintages, or if some of that is attributable to Alex Konsgaards' touch. We will see. The 2014 is the first Cabernet Sauvignon that incorporates fruit from Kongsgaard's home ranch on Atlas Peak, with an old heritage clone that was planted some years ago. Cabernet Franc also makes its first appearance in the Cabernets, with selections from Hudson and Pomerol's Vieux Château Certan. These remain some of the most striking and deeply personal wines being made in Napa Valley. The final notes of Beethoven's Symphony No. 3 'Eroica' fade into the background as this tasting wraps up. Heroic, indeed.

I walk into John Kongsgaard's barn-like winery on a late September afternoon just as the early dawn sets in over the hills of Atlas Peak. The first thing I see among the clutter of equipment is a photo of composer Gustav Mahler taped to one of the tanks. I ask Kongsgaard if he can put something on as I set up my computer and get settled in. His choice? The last movement of the 9th Symphony. Wow. Talk about going for it all. But that's exactly how Kongsgaard's wines are; bold, dramatic and full of ebbs and flows. The music goes off and the wines go on, and they are fabulous. In 2014, the wines are intensely mineral and savory. The 2013s are much more opulent. Both vintages look like they will be slow to mature. Other than that, it's still very much a down home affair here, with John Kongsgaard's wife Maggie, and son Alex both very much involved.