2009 Chardonnay The Judge

John Kongsgaard and his son Alex showed me a remarkable set of wines during my visit to the family's Judge Vineyard in southern Napa Valley, including a vertical of the Judge Chardonnay back to 2005, a wine that remains stunning to this day. Readers who can get their hands on the new Albarino should not hesitate; it is fabulous. Kongsgaard fans will also want to be on the lookout for The Fimasaurus, a new Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend dedicated to pianist Yefim Bromfman. John Kongsgaard's wines have always reflected a broad sense of culture and multiple interests, including a huge passion for classical music, so it isn't a surprise that the newest addition to the range pays homage to one of the world's greatest musicians. Readers might want to take a look at this short video I shot with John and Alex Kongsgaard in the middle of the Judge vineyard after the 2013 harvest.

Europhile John Kongsgaard describes 2010 as "a higher-energy vintage" than 2009, a cooler growing season that produced lower grape sugars at the same levels of phenolic maturity as the earlier year. "Lots of zinfandel and merlot was lost in 2010 because of a bigger crop than the root systems could support in a crisis," he said. Incidentally, beginning in 2009 Kongsgaard's cabernet, previously made from fruit purchased from David Abreu, is from shy-bearing 30+-year-old vines at an altitude of 2,300 feet on Atlas Peak, under a new lease with a neighbor.

The long, winding drive on an early Sunday morning up to John Kongsgaard's place on Atlas Peak was well worth the effort. The small, nondescript cellar is decorated with photos of famous classical musicians that replace conventional numbers on the tanks. As for the wines, they are flat-out stunning. Kongsgaard's Chardonnays are fermented with wild yeasts and are bottled with no fining or filtration after two years in barrel. The 100% new oak is barely perceptible in these fabulous wines. The Cabernet Sauvignons are now made from Kongsgaard's vineyards in Atlas Peak. Incidentally, Kongsgaard was among the latest to harvest his Cabernet in 2011. As of October 23, not a single Cabernet grape had been brought in.

Although he describes the 2009 and 2008 vintages as "not that different," John Kongsgaard told me that the 2008 growing season was "full of trouble, with some late heat spikes hurting the tender red varieties," while 2009 never got too hot. Easier extractions in 2009 yielded subtle, long wines with a sophisticated texture. Incidentally, beginning with the 2009 vintage, Kongsgaard's cabernet will come from a very cool, low-vigor site on Atlas Peak, planted in the 1970s at an altitude of 2,200 feet. Previously it was mostly from a vineyard owned by David Abreu, 200 feet above sea level. "I hope the new wine tastes like I made it," said Kongsgaard. "Certainly it has that 'striving for elegance' aspect to it."