2010 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard

It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although today, I have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in the lowest crop loads here in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact in how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren't quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling.

Aside from the obvious "stressful growing season and short crop," Steve Kistler is "very pleased with how 2010 has ultimately turned out" for both chardonnay and pinot noir. The coolness of the season encouraged the naturally low pHs and low sugars ("but with full ripeness") that Kistler seeks. According to Kistler, "They had the concentration to quickly and efficiently absorb the oak" and show a spiciness that makes for plenty of immediate appeal. The pinots "have a taut quality" that bodes well for aging, he says, adding that the late season heat spikes were mostly beneficial "if your vineyards were in cold, windy or high altitude spots and you hadn't gone too far with canopy thinning."