2017 Furmint

This is a brilliant set of wines from Lou and Louis Kapcsándy. The 2016s are as remarkable as I had hoped they would be. Even so, the 2017s, from a far more challenging harvest, might be even more impressive for the daunting circumstances under which they were made. The only issue with these wines is their tiny production, which means very few people ever get to taste them. That point was made very clear to me recently at a tasting in London, where I served the 2010 Grand Vin, one of my all-time favorites here, to a group of very experienced collectors, none of whom had ever tasted a Kapcsándy wine. I was not at all surprised by their reaction, as 2010 reaffirmed its place as one of the most monumental wines of that great harvest.