2009 Todos Santa Ynez Valley
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Winemaker Matt Dees told me that he considers 2009 to be a remarkable vintage for syrah "because we were able to get both richness and energy in the wines. They also express red fruit qualities, which people don't usually expect that we can get here." We talked for a bit about the sujet du jour of my trip, which was the pursuit of finesse. Dees averred that "it's really difficult to achieve finesse with young vines. You get intense fruit but to get real elegance the vines have to be mature, and that's starting to happen now." He is very pleased with the fruit he gets from Ballard Canyon "because it holds its acidity for a really long time, meaning you don't have to rush the harvest." In addition, Dees went on, "the tannins in Ballard Canyon fruit are smoother than from other places, which gives the wine more upfront appeal."
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