2006 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru

"The 2005s are significantly higher in acidity than the 2006s as well as more concentrated," said cellarmaster Patrick Piuze, "but the 2006s may be more typical Chablis due to their balance. They're more minerally and less fruit-driven wines. They're not bombs but they have finesse, structure and personality." Piuze admitted that most of his colleagues in Chablis prefer their 2005s, but noted that this may be partly because there was less room for error in 2006 due to the narrow window for harvesting ripe, healthy fruit. (I also got the feeling that Piuze has taken the Brocard wines to a higher level in 2006.) He used very little press wine in 2006 as the pHs of this juice tended to be too high. Following quick alcoholic and malolactic fermentations, all the wines except for the Clos were racked in mid-February. Piuze planned to use a bit more CO2 than usual to retain maximum freshness. (Martine's Wines, Novato, CA) Also recommended: 2005 Chablis Vieilles Vignes Domaine Sainte-Claire (86), 2005 Chablis Vau de Vey (86).