2004 Jean Faure
France
Saint Émilion Grand Cru
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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Olivier Decelle, who has brought in consultant Stephane Derenoncourt, told me that his vines-next to La Dominique and not far from Cheval Blanc-were ripe in sugar by September 10 but did not yet have enough phenolic maturity. Eventually he picked in two passes, beginning on September 22 and taking advantage of two sorting tables. Much of the cabernet franc brought in at the end was eliminated due to rot. The blend I tasted included 35% cabernet franc, down substantially from the 50% used in 2005.
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Olivier Decelle, who also owns Domaine Mas Amiel in Maury, purchased this estate in 2004 and quickly set about renovating the dilapidated house and building a new winery. This is a very well-located 18-hectare property: only La Dominique separates it from Cheval Blanc. The vines average 43 years of age, according to Decelle, but the property had been declassified in 1986 because the INAO ruled that the building and facilities were not of an acceptable quality for a St. Emilion grand cru classe The fruit is sorted by hand and, following a four-day cold soak, goes into squat concrete cuves without being crushed or pumped. Pigeage is done by hand, with the intention of extracting without brutalizing the grapes. According to Decelle, his fermenters could easily be used to make pinot noir. The fermentation is done using wild yeasts, and there's limited post-fermentation maceration. Olivier is aging half of the 2005 in new oak and half in concrete tanks. The pH here is a low 3.4 and the acidity is 3.7 grams, but the alcohol level is a healthy 13.25%. Decelle produced 38 hectoliters per hectare and does not make a second wine. "We need to get all of our parcels right," he said. "We'll drop crop if it's necessary to get the rest ripe." The 2004 vintage here is a good first effort, but the 2005 is at another level of quality. A wine to buy, as it will take a while for the price of Jean Faure to catch up to quality.
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