2005 Extra-Brut Champ Gain

I tasted a wide range of wines with Jean-Hervé Chiquet on my most recent visit to Jacquesson. The 700-Series Champagnes remain some of the best relative values in Champagne, although, sadly, they are hard to find. Jacquesson did a terrific job with their 2005 vineyard-designate Champagnes, especially considering the up and down quality of the year. I also had a chance to revisit the 2004s, all of which are going through an extremely closed phase. That is probably a good thing for the long-term, but readers holding those wines are best off deferring gratification for at least a few years. Jacquesson's transformation into a small, grower estate over the last handful of years is nothing short of remarkable. Readers who haven't tasted these Champagnes in some time own it to themselves to do so. Today, Jacquesson is among Champagne's elite producers, that much is certain.