2017 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie

Standing on the balcony of the Il Marroneto winery, looking out across the Madonna di Grazie vineyard and, beyond that, all of Montalcino’s north hill puts the magic of this place and this wine into perspective. This is not your average Montalcino sight or terroir. In fact, it’s difficult to compare this location to nearly any other place. As you descend down from the castle town, the inclines become quite steep very quickly. In fact, without the right vehicle and tires, you could almost imagine losing control on these dirt roads and sliding backward or literally off of the edge. This is high elevation, with the Madonna di Grazie vineyard, which is Il Marroneto’s first vineyard, planted in 1974, averaging around 400 meters. Owner and winemaker, Alessandro Mori explained to me, “We are standing on a beach.” This is when things get really interesting, as most producers on the north hill have a combination of soils that mix the deposits of an ancient sea with the deteriorating shear rock of the Montalcino hill that has slowly crumbled down into their vineyards over the centuries. However, at Madonna di Grazie, we are on the “beach”, at the water line, and these high-elevation vineyards are growing in much sandier soils, laced with marine fossils and minerals. This mix also means that they retain less water which, when combined with these old vines, creates fruit of extraordinary character. Now we add the influences of northern wind currents to the equation, which descend upon this hill each evening, cooling and tempering the vines. When you take into account the natural approach, traditional methods and transparent winemaking of Alessandro Mori, it suddenly becomes very easy to see why the Brunello di Montalcino Madonna di Grazie is a standout in nearly every vintage, and also able to excel in the most difficult ones. Of course, Il Marroneto is about much more than just Madonna di Grazie. The estate Brunello is also at the head of the pack, from vineyards further down the hill at around 250 meters of elevation. These parcels enjoy the same loving care, yet in soils that promote a lighter, more delicate yet still characterful and age worthy style. The Brunello of Il Marroneto is pure elegance, yet delicate in feel. Both wines undergo extended aging in a combination of large French and Slavonian oak casks, with just a matter of time and material that sets them apart. These are living wines which, when tasted, actually express a sensation of wholesomeness.

But wait, there’s more. While visiting the winery in July of 2021, I was confronted with a single barrel sample that was a blending of three barrels, all from the 2019 vintage and the Madonna di Grazie vineyard. As explained by Alessandro Mori, when his son Iacopo officially joined the winery the previous year, he gave him full control over creating his own special blend from these barrels. The wine, labeled Rosso di Montalcino Selezione Iacopo, is just being released this year, having spent two years in cask. Luckily, an official bottled sample of this wine was delivered to our offices along with the new vintages of Brunello; and yes, lightning did strike twice. While it will be priced along the lines of the Brunello, this represents an amazing relative value to lovers of this estate. And last but not least, let’s just say that Alessandro Mori has a couple more tricks up his sleeve, which includes prospects for another Riserva. Keep in mind that only one has ever been released in the history of the estate. I’m very happy to report that Il Marroneto remains at the top of their game and at the head of the pack.