2010 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard

Hyde de Villaine (HdV) stands in stark contrast to many other estates in Napa Valley. Winemaker Stephane Vivier makes Chardonnays that are focused and bracing in style, much of that coming from the decision to pick earlier than many of his colleagues. The Syrahs are aromatic, fruit-driven and supple in style. I am less convinced about the Bordeaux reds at HdV, but look forward to tasting the Pinots that will become part of the range with the 2012 vintage. HdV is a partnership between two icons and their families; Larry Hyde, who has been one of California's preeminent growers since the late 1970s, and Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. My sense is that the winery is still finding its style, but certainly all the ingredients are in place for HdV to build on their prior successes.

This was my first visit to HdV (Hyde de Villaine), a small artisan winery located in southern Napa Valley. HdV is partnership between Larry Hyde and his cousin Pamela de Villaine’s family, including her husband, Aubert de Villaine, one of the co-owners of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. The wines are generally made with an emphasis on freshness that is achieved through early picking and gentle winemaking. Not surprisingly, the Chardonnays are steely and tense in style, while the Syrah is restrained relative to what most readers are likely to expect in California. Pinot Noir is a recent addition to the lineup. Given the estate’s Burgundian connection, it will be very interesting to see what develops here with Pinot over the coming years. The estate’s Belle Cousine Bordeaux-blend appears to still be a work in progress and the wine less inherently suited to the goals of the estate.