2013 Riesling Dhroner Hofberg Grosses Gewächs

“Two-thirds of my total production is now dry Riesling,” said Gerhard Grans as we were tasting the 2013s. While most American consumers associate the Mosel with delicately sweet Kabinetts and succulent Spätleses, this is the new reality. Yes, many of the simple offerings from the Mosel are mediocre at best, but this estate knows how to make dry Riesling, as his entry-level Mineralschiefer amply proves. Moreover, Grans's Grosses Gewächs have gained in stature over the past few vintages. It was not easy to integrate the bracing acidity of the 2013 vintage without resorting to residual sugar, but his Apotheke was again my favorite from this year’s line-up. That said, the Spätlese from the same site was the purest expression of the vintage, at once crisp, clean and pure.