2013 Riesling Forster Jesuitengarten Grosses Gewächs

This is the second vintage that Georg Mosbacher crushed in the estate’s new winery in the vineyards of Forst. With its glass front, it provides an excellent view of the Freundstück site, which daughter Sabine Mosbacher, and her husband Jürgen Düringer, who makes the wines, particularly admire. Little has changed, though, in the style of their wines, which are lighter but often more elegant than those of their colleagues. Such Rieslings appeal to consumers who like the spice of the Nahe or the delicacy of the Mosel rather than the richer, broader-shouldered, more traditional style of the Pfalz. This is all the more surprising when one learns that Jürgen Düringer himself hails from Baden, even further to the south. “I prefer drinkability,” he says, “and so do our clients.” As they own substantial plots in the heart of several famous vineyards in Forst, I would sometimes like to see a bit more substance and depth in their finest Rieslings, but their avid clientele obviously does not share my opinion.