2022 Gaia & Rey

These new releases from the Gaja family are impressive. Generational succession is the single greatest threat to the long-term survival of family-owned wineries in Italy. Although there have naturally been some bumps in the road, the Gajas have navigated this tricky phase exceptionally well. That takes an older generation that can let go and a younger generation that is capable of taking over, neither of which is by any means a foregone conclusion. Today’s wines are increasingly marked by grace and understatement, along with the strong expression of site that has always been a calling card for the vineyard designate Barbarescos and Barolos.

The 2021 Barbarescos lead the way this year. Sorì Tildin and Sorì San Lorenzo are especially fine. It was not an easy vintage. Frost and cold weather during flowering lowered yields in some spots. Even so, the wines are pretty special. These days, the Barbarescos and Barolos see 45-60 days on the skins. Aging takes place first in French oak barrels and then cask. There’s a bit more French oak influence in Sperrs, much less so in the other wines.