2017 Barbaresco
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Gaja’s 2017s reflect the significant challenges of a turbulent and very challenging growing season. The Barbarescos had a bit more flesh when I tasted them from barrel last year. From bottle, the wines appear a touch lighter, which means they have lost some depth or are perhaps closed at this stage. Time will tell. What seems more certain is that site signatures, which is what I look for most in these wines, are blurred and not as well articulated as they are in more favorable years.
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I tasted a wide range of wines during my last visit to Gaja, including a number of wines just prior to bottling. The 2017 Barbarescos are shaping up nicely. Yields are down around 30% because of dehydration and thick skins, typical of the year. I don't see quite the pedigree of 2016, but that is the beauty of vintages. In 2016, Gaja will only bottle one Barolo, Sperss, as Conteisa was affected by hail. The move toward a more refined approach continues to be evident as the younger generation increasingly takes the helm. I have to say, the direction at Gaja of late has been really impressive.
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