2002 Niersteiner Pettental Riesling Erstes Gewachs

The acidities in riesling here were not so analytically high, and a considerable amount of tartrate precipitation lowered them further. So it's curious, as Michael Burgdorf admits, that the young dry wines show a brisk and at times almost severely acidic side. That said, the 2002 collection here is certainly a worthy successor to 2001, further evidence that this great estate is coming back to its long-time place near the head of the Rheinhessen pecking order, after some difficult vintages during the financially precarious 1990s, prior to its acquisition by Marcus Ahr. At the time of my visit, several 2002s, including a Brudersberg Erstes Gewachs, lay unfinished in cask, whence the team here is reluctant to show them. (Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK) Also recommended: 2002 Riesling Baron Heyl, 2002 Riesling Kabinett Baron Heyl, 2002 Niersteiner Brudersberg Riesling Spatlese.