2017 Montlouis Les Bournais

I tasted a wide range of wines from François and Manuela Chidaine, both current releases and a number of older vintages. Sustainable farming and a focus on old-vine Chenin sites informs these remarkable whites. The wines range from sec to moeulleux, more or less in this order, as outlined by the Chidaines on their back label: Sec - Clos du Breuil, Les Grillonnières, Les Argiles, Les Choisilles, Baudoin and Les Bournais; Tendre - Le Clos Habert, Les Tuffeaux and Bouchet; and Moelleux – Montlouis Moelleux, Les Lys and Vin de Franc Moelleux. There are many highlights in these new releases. Readers who can find the 2018 Montlouis Les Bournais Franc de Pied should not hesitate, as it is truly spectacular.

Some of the most exceptional dry Chenin Blanc in the Loire is now being made in Montlouis, across the river from Vouvray. François Chidaine is one of the pioneers of Montlouis as well as of biodynamic growing and natural winemaking, with 30 hectares of 40- to 80-year-old vines in Montlouis – and also in Vouvray. However, those vineyards in Vouvray (Les Argiles and the legendary site Clos Baudoin) now must be labeled Vin de France due to a petty, contentious appellation rule change a few years ago. All of Chidaine’s wines see long fermentations and are aged for 10 months, with about 10% new oak. Chidaine’s dry Chenin Blancs were among the finest I tasted for this report.