2009 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli
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Valter Fissore was in Switzerland on the day I was able to visit the Elvio Cogno estate, so I tasted with his wife Nadia, Elvio Cogno's daughter. Cogno was a trailblazer in the town of Novello, where even today there are just a few wineries. The Cogno Barolos spend 40 days on their skins in stainless steel tanks, with the traditional cappello sommerso (submerged cap) method used, plus plenty of post-fermentation maceration. After the end of the malolactic fermentations, the wines go into large barrels (the Cascina Nuova gets a bit of used barriques). Interestingly, Nadia told me that she prefers 2007 to 2008, explaining that "2008 is easier, and has the same smell of pinot noir herbs across the board, while the 2007s have more structure, richness and alcohol and are becoming drinkable now. They're more typical Barolo."
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Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno continue to do fabulous work. Cogno is one of the very finest estates in Piedmont. Every wine I tasted this year was brilliant. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, which means they need bottle age, even at the entry-level. The Baroli in particular are magnificent. The wines are fermented with native yeasts, see lengthy submerged-cap macerations, and are aged for 2-3 years in large, neutral oak casks.
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