2010 Dolcetto d'Alba
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A long-time lover of Burgundy, Elio Altare is one of many Barolo modernists who treats his nebbiolo gently, almost as if it were pinot noir. He uses no commercial yeasts or enzymes, racks his wines a maximum of three times in all, and bottles without fining or filtration during the third summer after the harvest. Altare wasn't yet swallowing the hype about 2010, maintaining that "the wines could lack flesh and sweetness. What's a grand vin?" he asked rhetorically. "Is it a black color? Is it 15% alcohol? For me, the most important thing is to make wine without faults every year." Altare described his 2009 Barolos as "nerveux, like the 2006s," adding that they are juicy and tight and will need a lot of time in the cellar. He went on to compare the 2008s to the 1988s for their finesse. As in recent years, my tasting began with Altare's intriguing Az. Ag. Campogrande white wines from steep terraced vineyards on the Ligurian Coast.
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Long-time Burgundy aficionado Elio Altare loves the style of the 2008 Barolos. "Like 1998 and 1988 they are less powerful but more elegant and delicate, more Burgundian," he told me, adding that "Barolo is my interpretation, and my model and first love is Burgundy." Incidentally, at the end of my September tasting here I tried a sample of 2010 nebbiolo from Arborina that had been destemmed by hand and fermented for considerably longer than is Altare's standard practice. With its noble floral and fruit syrup notes and silky texture, the wine struck me as a hypothetical blend of Vosne-Romanee and Gevrey-Chambertin. Don't be surprised if Altare makes more use of this approach in the future.
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In top vintages such as 2010, Elio Altare's entry-level wines are as good as it gets within their respective categories and price ranges.
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