1998 Barolo Brunate

1998 has always been an interesting vintage for Barolo. Caught between the more hyped 1996 and 1997 on one end, and 2000 and 2001 on the other, the 1998s have often been overlooked. It also didn't help that the wines were first released during a period global economic malaise. While 1998 is not a truly iconic, legendary vintage, these Barolos are great choices for medium-term drinking as a number of wines are entering their early maturity, making them great choices for readers who are cellaring wines from Piedmont's sturdier vintages such as 1996, 1999 and 2001.

Piedmont experienced mostly warm weather in 1998 with spells of drought, though nowhere near the extremes seen in 1997. The wines have always been perfumed and accessible, with an attractive softness to the fruit. Even better, the vast majority of the wines have never shut down to the extent that wines from cooler vintages often do. The 1998s are extremely consistent across the board, and that level of outstanding quality may very well end up being the vintage's strongest attribute. As is typically the case, the Barolos of La Morra and Barolo are the most forward, while those of Serralunga are the freshest. Most of these wines were from my cellar, purchased and cellared since release, although I tasted a few of the wines a second time with the producers.

Altare was in a contemplative mood when I stopped by on a quiet Monday afternoon, and he spent a good half-hour summing up the last 20 years of progress in the Barolo appellation (eventually I had to remind him that I wanted to taste his wines). "Nebbiolo is more tannic, more astringent, than pinot noir; thus we use shorter macerations," said Altare, in answer to my first question about whether quick extraction of color through the use of rotofermenters compromises the aging potential of Barolo. "What I am sure of, from my own experience, is that the wine is better for at least its first 15 years, maybe 20. You know, wine is an interpretation; you can never satisfy everyone. Why does wine have to be tannic, acid, hard? I like wine that's elegant, perfumed, fruity, balanced. It's a drink of pleasure, period. We don't tell people how to eat; why should we tell them what kinds of wines they should be drinking?"Altare, who lists his major influences as Burgundy, Angelo Gaja and Paul Pontallier, told me he first used a bit of barrique for his Barolo in 1985, then by 1990 arrived at the 80/20 ratio of used and new barrels that he still uses today. He made it clear that he has no rule on the length of the maceration. "We need to adapt the number of days on the skins to the conditions of each year. For example, in 1994 I did only 40 hours of maceration and today I love these wines. In 1998, the wines spent five days on their skins at a very cool 25 to 28 degrees [centigrade], maybe too cool. In '99, the temperature was more like 32 to 35 degrees." (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, the most important of which are Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)

"Wine is a drink of pleasure, period," explains Altare. "So the best possible compliment is for the taster to say 'It's young and it's good.' A great wine should always be good." Altare is especially fond of the 1998 vintage. "It's not a vintage with huge flesh, but the wines offer outstanding finesse, balance and drinkability." If the sophistication of a winemaker can be measured by the range and quality of the bottles on display in his tasting room, Altare has few peers anywhere.