2005 Hermitage Ex-Voto

The Guigals were so unimpressed by the quality of the fruit they were offered from the southern Rhone in 2008 that they decided not to make any red wines from this region, Philippe Guigal told me. "The fruit was simply too fragile," said Guigal, "and we weren't confident that it would stand up to our type of elevage, which we like to extend." This means that there will be no 2008 red Cotes du Rhone for the first time since 1992. Guigal is impressed by the "flexibility" of 2007. "The fruit is up front, there's enough acidity to give the wines the balance for aging, yet the tannins are soft enough that they can be drunk young." Guigal told me that he is liking 2006 more and more "because the wines are very spicy and floral, and have real integrity, balance and precision. They aren't powerful like the '05s, but they'll live a long time on their balance. People forget that elegant wines can often outlive the big guys." The just-bottled 2006 Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde wasn't in a state for tasting when I visited Guigal at the beginning of November so I will report on this wine next year.

The big news at Guigal this year was the recent acquisition of a half hectare of vines in Condrieu's prized Chery vineyard. In the 2008 vintage this fruit will go into Guigal's La Doriane bottling, and Philippe Guigal believes it will add an extra dimension of finesse to the wine. On the subject of reds, Guigal describes 2007 as "a rich, generous vintage that will be approachable young but has the depth and balance to age. " He added that the 2005s will need at least as much time as the 1978s. "I can't imagine them giving much pleasure before they are at least a decade old. " The 2006s, he reiterated, "will be long-lived, which might surprise people who are seduced by all their fruit right now. " The grapes for this estate's red wines have only been completely destemmed once, in 2002, which no doubt contributes to their complex, intensely spicy bouquets. Incidentally, 2004 was the first vintage in which the Guigals used only their own house-made barriques. (Ex-Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA) Also recommended: 2007 Cotes du Rhone Blanc (87), 2007 Cotes du Rhone Rose (86), 2007 Tavel Rose (87).