2009 Ermitage Blanc Ex-Voto

Tasting in the Guigal cellars is always a lesson in the most recent vintages of the Rhone as the family staggers most of their releases to correspond with each wine's relative drinkablity. So it's possible to taste across up to four and sometimes even five vintages here, not even taking into account the very late-bottled La La wines. Philippe Guigal told me that he is moving steadily to bring the Chateau d'Ampuis bottling, which is drawn from seven sites, including La Landonne, "up to as close to the single vineyard bottlings as possible." The aim is to position the wine as distinct from the estate's flagship Brune et Blonde bottling, Guigal told me, adding that now that the wine has become well known it's time for it to have its own identity and reputation. Speaking of the Chateau d'Ampuis, the 2008, which was reviewed last year, is showing beautifully right now, with a suave, silky texture and alluring floral and spice character. It will age, no doubt, but I found it pretty irresistible this fall.

The low yields of 2010 were a painful slap to Guigal and everybody in the Rhone, Philippe Guigal commented. "It was even more painful since it's a superb vintage," he added. Tasting here is a moving target as the Guigals like to release wines as they deem them fit, which can mean that a "regular" Hermitage might be held back longer than the luxury Ex-Voto bottling from the same vintage, or the Chateau d'Ampuis Cote-Rotie may be put on the market before the flagship Brune et Blonde version. "There's no set regimen for how the wines are raised, when they are bottled, or when they are released," said Philippe. "The wine makes the decision and wines change a lot during elevage, so we can't predict what will happen too far in advance."