2011 Barolo Riserva

This is a terrific set of Barolos from Dosio and winemaker Marco Dotta, who was previously at Marchesi di Gresy. Dosio's holdings are concentrated in the La Morra crus of Serradenari, where the winery is located, and Fossati. Both of these are high altitude sites, so it is not a surprise that the Dosio Barolos are somewhat nervous in style. That said, cooler exposures can be a plus in warmer years and are likely to be favored in a world increasingly shaped by climate change. The Barolos are aged in a combination of small and large format oak. My impression is that the oak program is still being refined. The best of these Barolos suggest Dosio has a very bright future. This is an estate to watch.