1996 Napanook

The selection for the grand vin is essentially by vineyard block, with a few favored sites regularly making up the core of the blend. Each year a virtual yes/no decision is made on the estate capricious merlot (in for '97, almost completely out in '96); the cabernet franc, says Christian Moueix, usually makes the cut. "The petit verdot is a major plus in small quantities in a big year," Moueix adds, "while in a small year a fairly large portion of cabernet franc contributes body and flesh." Production of Dominus's second wine, labeled as Napanook, will rise to 6,000 cases in the '97 vintage, but the estate is still a seller of fruit and bulk wine. On my most recent visit to the estate, Moueix hosted a vertical tasting of all Dominus vintages back to 1987, the year he describes as "our first very good vintage." I will publish complete tasting notes on these wines in an upcoming issue.