2005 Dominus

Dominus and Ulysses winemaker Tod Mostero is one of the most articulate and thoughtful winemakers in Napa Valley. “The 2021 growing season was consistently warm, but we had no real heat spikes to speak of in 2021, just a day or two where temperatures were above 100 degrees, nothing more than that,” Mostero explained. “Yields were average. Our time on the skins was 20-21 days, maybe a bit less than normal, but not a significant change.” The 2021s have the highest phenolic concentration since 2013.

Dominus and Ulysses winemaker Tod Mostero is one of the most articulate and thoughtful winemakers in Napa Valley. “The 2021 growing season was consistently warm, but we had no real heat spikes to speak of in 2021, just a day or two where temperatures were above 100 degrees, nothing more than that,” Mostero explained. “Yields were average. Our time on the skins was 20-21 days, maybe a bit less than normal, but not a significant change.” The 2021s have the highest phenolic concentration since 2013.

The 2019s from Dominus are stellar. As has been the case in many recent vintages, the Napanook Cabernet over-delivers big time. The Dominus Cabernet is shaping up to be one of the great wines of the vintage. Mostero describes 2019 as a year with a very rainy and cool May. He opened the canopies early to reduce disease pressure, which was a benefit in helping the grapes acclimate to warmer temperatures in light of the big heat spikes that arrived in mid-August and then in September, when temperatures soared over 100 degrees.

The 2018s at Dominus are very pretty, balanced wines that are all about finesse. In my view, the wines lack some of the explosive energy and depth of the very finest vintages. In exchange, I expect the wines will drink well pretty much right out of the gate. It was a late harvest here, as it was throughout the valley. Picking started on October 1st, twelve days later than normal, and wrapped up on the 15th, with virtually all of the fruit coming in on the second week of that window. Dry farming, gentle extractions and minimal use of new French oak are some of the cornerstones of the approach employed by proprietor Christian Moueix and winemaker Tod Mostero in crafting these exquisitely beautiful Cabernets.

Tod Mostero echoed the feelings of most winemakers regarding 2016 when he explained that it was a warm vintage until August, when temperatures dropped. I remember that vividly, as my team mapped Dominus and Yountville that summer. As for the wines, 2016 is another superb vintage for Mostero and proprietor Christian Moueix. Truth be told, though, I have a slight preference for Ulysses, Moueix's Oakville Cabernet, over Dominus today.

Winemaker Tod Mostero describes 2014 as a drought year with consistently warm temperatures for the entire year, but no heat spikes. Mostero is among the producers who spoke of the plants getting greener and more vibrant at the end of the season, after the August earthquake changed the hydrology of the soils and gave them water as dry springs and streams began to flow. I would imagine that the sudden presence of water would be especially notice at sites like Dominus that dry farm. Harvest started on September 2 and ran through the 30th. Two thousand fifteen, on the other hand, saw numerous heat spikes, including three heat events during harvest. Picking started on September 2 (the same as 2014), but all the fruit was in by the 16th, a much more condensed harvest period of just two weeks compared to 4 weeks in 2014. As for the wines, they are terrific. The 2014s have developed beautifully over the last year. Today, the differences between the two 2015s are not that marked, which can happen in unusually warm vintages.

Winemaker Tod Mostero describes 2014 as a drought year with consistently warm temperatures for the entire year, but no heat spikes. Mostero is among the producers who spoke of the plants getting greener and more vibrant at the end of the season, after the August earthquake changed the hydrology of the soils and gave them water as dry springs and streams began to flow. I would imagine that the sudden presence of water would be especially notice at sites like Dominus that dry farm. Harvest started on September 2 and ran through the 30th. Two thousand fifteen, on the other hand, saw numerous heat spikes, including three heat events during harvest. Picking started on September 2 (the same as 2014), but all the fruit was in by the 16th, a much more condensed harvest period of just two weeks compared to 4 weeks in 2014. As for the wines, they are terrific. The 2014s have developed beautifully over the last year. Today, the differences between the two 2015s are not that marked, which can happen in unusually warm vintages.

This is a stellar set of wines from Dominus. The 2013s from bottle are even better than they were from barrel, while the 2012s continue to deliver on their early promise. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2014s, the blends had not been created at the time of my visit. Winemaker Tod Mostero describes 2012 as a late harvest, inline with vintages such as 2006, with no heat spikes and an October harvest. Yields were on the generous side. Things were quite different in 2013, a year in which the vineyards saw just 6 inches of rain all year versus 18, which is the norm. Mostero adds that rain in December 2012 allowed for some reserves to accumulate. The year got off to an early start and was warm all the way through to the harvest, with no meaningful heat spikes in the summer. Harvest started on September 10, nearly a month earlier than in 2012. Yields were once again bountiful, although not at the levels of 2012. As for the wines, the 2013s present off the charts levels of richness, dry extract and overall intensity. While most of the attention focuses on the flagship Dominus, readers should not overlook the Napanook, which is superb in both 2012 and 2013.

I was blown away by the wines I tasted at Dominus in October, but not totally surprised, given proprietor Christian Moueix and winemaker Tod Mostero have been on a roll over the last few years. Readers will not want to miss the 2012s, as the wines are off the charts. In 2012, the harvest took place from October 9 to 21, almost a full month later than the historical norm here. As a result, the wines have gorgeous textural richness and opulence, especially within the context of the estate, yet retain gorgeous acidity and overall structure. As good as the 2012s are, the 2013s are even better and are also among the very best wines of the year in Napa Valley. The 2013 vintage was characterized by a slightly condensed growing season. Bud break was about a week later than normal, but warm temperatures during spring and early summer, with very little rain, accelerated ripening.

This is a stellar set of wines from Dominus. The 2013s from bottle are even better than they were from barrel, while the 2012s continue to deliver on their early promise. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2014s, the blends had not been created at the time of my visit. Winemaker Tod Mostero describes 2012 as a late harvest, inline with vintages such as 2006, with no heat spikes and an October harvest. Yields were on the generous side. Things were quite different in 2013, a year in which the vineyards saw just 6 inches of rain all year versus 18, which is the norm. Mostero adds that rain in December 2012 allowed for some reserves to accumulate. The year got off to an early start and was warm all the way through to the harvest, with no meaningful heat spikes in the summer. Harvest started on September 10, nearly a month earlier than in 2012. Yields were once again bountiful, although not at the levels of 2012. As for the wines, the 2013s present off the charts levels of richness, dry extract and overall intensity. While most of the attention focuses on the flagship Dominus, readers should not overlook the Napanook, which is superb in both 2012 and 2013.

I was blown away by the wines I tasted at Dominus in October, but not totally surprised, given proprietor Christian Moueix and winemaker Tod Mostero have been on a roll over the last few years. Readers will not want to miss the 2012s, as the wines are off the charts. In 2012, the harvest took place from October 9 to 21, almost a full month later than the historical norm here. As a result, the wines have gorgeous textural richness and opulence, especially within the context of the estate, yet retain gorgeous acidity and overall structure. As good as the 2012s are, the 2013s are even better and are also among the very best wines of the year in Napa Valley. The 2013 vintage was characterized by a slightly condensed growing season. Bud break was about a week later than normal, but warm temperatures during spring and early summer, with very little rain, accelerated ripening.

Production was average in 2011 as the berries were of a decent size, noted winemaker Tod Mostero. But it was a difficult season owing to the lack of afternoon heat and the rain and humidity before and during the harvest. For the first time, Dominus Estate de-leafed both sides of the vines, in an attempt to aerate the fruit and open the clusters to as much sun as possible. As a significant percentage of the fruit had what Mostero described as "weakened skins," substantial sorting was required. Mostero described the 2012s here as "fruity, clean, precise and pleasant." The selection criterion in 2012, he told me, was to avoid getting drying tannins. He is particularly enamored of the young 2013s, a vintage he described as "another dimension: fuller and richer."

Winemaker Tod Mostero describes 2010 as the most difficult year he has ever seen. A sudden and severe heat spike on August 24 scorched the vines, which weren't at all prepared for such extremes, as the year had been quite cold and moist up until then. The heat torched the vines and took with it 60% of the Cabernet Franc and 30% of the Petit Verdot crop. Production was the lowest since 1984, as quite a bit of wine was sold in bulk. As always, I tasted two bottles of each wine; the first was double decanted about 18 hours in advance, the other opened shortly before the tasting. I consistently preferred the double decanted bottles, and suggest readers follow the same approach when drinking these wines young.

"We had almost double the rain of an average year and no real heat until September. Otherwise it was wet and cool," Winemaker Tod Mostero told me. "I have never seen botrytis move that fast. We harvested 90% of the ranch in a week."

Production was average in 2011 as the berries were of a decent size, noted winemaker Tod Mostero.But it was a difficult season owing to the lack of afternoon heat and the rain and humidity before and during the harvest.For the first time, Dominus Estate de-leafed both sides of the vines, in an attempt to aerate the fruit and open the clusters to as much sun as possible.As a significant percentage of the fruit had what Mostero described as "weakened skins," substantial sorting was required.Mostero described the 2012s here as "fruity, clean, precise and pleasant."The selection criterion in 2012, he told me, was to avoid getting drying tannins.He is particularly enamored of the young 2013s, a vintage he described as "another dimension:fuller and richer."

Winemaker Tod Mostero describes 2010 as the most difficult year he has ever seen. A sudden and severe heat spike on August 24 scorched the vines, which weren't at all prepared for such extremes, as the year had been quite cold and moist up until then. The heat torched the vines and took with it 60% of the Cabernet Franc and 30% of the Petit Verdot crop. Production was the lowest since 1984, as quite a bit of wine was sold in bulk. As always, I tasted two bottles of each wine; the first was double decanted about 18 hours in advance, the other opened shortly before the tasting. I consistently preferred the double decanted bottles, and suggest readers follow the same approach when drinking these wines young.

Temperatures were cooler than average from May through August of 2011, said winemaker Tod Mostero, but the nighttime lows were about average."Which means that we had lower diurnal ranges than usual, as the afternoon temperatures never really warmed up.We generally need more diurnal fluctuation to get real intensity, and yet there were some gorgeous lots in 2011, as temperatures were actually warmer than usual in September and October, but without heat spikes.But it was a humid year, beginning with a couple of wet periods in early summer, which is very rare here.In 2011 we had to pick before the botrytis spread."Mostero told me he "vinified for a light vintage," doing a gentle extraction.

This wine was tasted as part of 2010 Napa Valley at the NoMad Rooftop, which was held on April 22, 2015.

Winemaker Tod Mostero describes 2010 as the most difficult year he has ever seen. A sudden and severe heat spike on August 24 scorched the vines, which weren't at all prepared for such extremes, as the year had been quite cold and moist up until then. The heat torched the vines and took with it 60% of the Cabernet Franc and 30% of the Petit Verdot crop. Production was the lowest since 1984, as quite a bit of wine was sold in bulk. As always, I tasted two bottles of each wine; the first was double decanted about 18 hours in advance, the other opened shortly before the tasting. I consistently preferred the double decanted bottles, and suggest readers follow the same approach when drinking these wines young.

Temperatures were cooler than average from May through August of 2011, said winemaker Tod Mostero, but the nighttime lows were about average."Which means that we had lower diurnal ranges than usual, as the afternoon temperatures never really warmed up.We generally need more diurnal fluctuation to get real intensity, and yet there were some gorgeous lots in 2011, as temperatures were actually warmer than usual in September and October, but without heat spikes.But it was a humid year, beginning with a couple of wet periods in early summer, which is very rare here.In 2011 we had to pick before the botrytis spread."Mostero told me he "vinified for a light vintage," doing a gentle extraction.

I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Dominus this year, including the spectacular 2006 Dominus, which I promptly went out and added to my cellar. But back to the present. Christian Moueix and the Dominus team headed by Tod Mostero have done a fabulous job with these wines. Mostero describes 2010 as a cold year, but with heat spikes in late August, September and October, which resulted in the loss of virtually all of the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. In 2010, the harvest started on October 4 and stretched all the way to October 23, much later than in 2009. The 2010s dark, tannic wines that are likely to require quite a bit of patience. According to Mostero, 2009 was a year of even temperatures, with no heat spikes or other traumatic events. The harvest took place between October 5 and 12.

The 2010 and 2009 Dominus Estate wines are quite different from each other, but probably less so than the original raw materials would have suggested. According to winemaker Tod Mostero, production in 2010 was extremely low owing to a very severe selection, with the quantity of flagship wine the lowest to date, and less than half that of 2009. "We had sharp heat spikes on August 24, September 2 and September 28, followed by three hot days from October 12 through 14," said Mostero, "and we practically lost our cabernet franc. The cabernet sauvignon grapes didn't really soften until the end. The 2010s are tannic and deeply colored, and for the flagship wine we selected out some of the more muscular lots. A lot of fruit that normally goes into Dominus went into our Napanook wine instead." The estate's 2009 is a much more spherical wine in comparison, noted Mostero. "It offers lovely balance and nuance, and no one element stands out today."

Hatched comes strongly recommended. It might lack the luxurious accouterments you might expect from a restaurant. You could argue that it is stripped down to the fundaments: the quality of service and quality of food. Inconveniently, it is not located close to any tube station, off the beaten trek, so either grab a cab or give your legs a workout. Trust me, the Pain Perdu alone is worth it.

I was delighted when one of our private clients reached out to schedule this celebratory dinner for a small group of friends and co-workers. Our guests took care of the arrangements with Wheeler Farms, and I chose several of my favorite wines, presented in thematic flights. Executive Chef Tom Harder, whom I had first met years ago at Mustard’s prepared a fabulous meal. The hospitality team led by Philip O’Conor and Patrick Memmott took care of every detail of service with the same precision. It was a fabulous night of wine, food and conviviality.

I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Dominus this year, including the spectacular 2006 Dominus, which I promptly went out and added to my cellar. But back to the present. Christian Moueix and the Dominus team headed by Tod Mostero have done a fabulous job with these wines. Mostero describes 2010 as a cold year, but with heat spikes in late August, September and October, which resulted in the loss of virtually all of the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. In 2010, the harvest started on October 4 and stretched all the way to October 23, much later than in 2009. The 2010s dark, tannic wines that are likely to require quite a bit of patience. According to Mostero, 2009 was a year of even temperatures, with no heat spikes or other traumatic events. The harvest took place between October 5 and 12.

The 2010 and 2009 Dominus Estate wines are quite different from each other, but probably less so than the original raw materials would have suggested. According to winemaker Tod Mostero, production in 2010 was extremely low owing to a very severe selection, with the quantity of flagship wine the lowest to date, and less than half that of 2009. "We had sharp heat spikes on August 24, September 2 and September 28, followed by three hot days from October 12 through 14," said Mostero, "and we practically lost our cabernet franc. The cabernet sauvignon grapes didn't really soften until the end. The 2010s are tannic and deeply colored, and for the flagship wine we selected out some of the more muscular lots. A lot of fruit that normally goes into Dominus went into our Napanook wine instead." The estate's 2009 is a much more spherical wine in comparison, noted Mostero. "It offers lovely balance and nuance, and no one element stands out today."

One of the privileges of being a wine critic is the opportunity for constant education. My visit at Dominus was very much educational. Winemaker Tod Mostero opened two bottles of each wine we tasted; the first was opened and double decanted 24 hours in advance, the second was opened one hour prior to the tasting. I tasted a wide range of vintages going back to 1996, but the biggest differences between bottles that had been opened a day before and one hour before this tasting were with the younger vintages. Ideally the Dominus wines should be cellared, but if that is not possible, generous aeration is a good substitute.

Winemaker Tod Mostero was quick to point out that although 2008 was tough from a viticultural standpoint, it was relatively easy from a winemaker's point of view. Yes, there was variation in the flowering, but the berries were small, the summer was warm, and the estate finished the harvest relatively early. "The vinifications were fast and easy, both alcoholic and malolactic, we got good fruit purity and soft tannins, and there's little in the way of herbal or tea flavors in 2008," he explained. Two thousand nine was very different from 2008, with late rains into May, a mild summer without many extremes, and a slightly longer vegetative cycle than 2008. "Bud break, bloom and veraison all came suddenly," he went on. "September was warm but not excessively hot and there was no need to rush. And then the fruit ripeness came quickly between October 5 and 12. We picked on eight consecutive days and were lucky to get our fruit in before it rained 4.5 inches on the night of the 12th. Incidentally, following the substantial planting that has taken place here in recent years, there is no longer any merlot on the property.

As the challenges of difficult growing seasons fade with time, two things happen. First, in the memory of winemakers, rain events magically become less extreme: the actual torrential rainfall that plagued a harvest shrinks to moderate precipitation and eventually to a vague recollection of moisture. Freakishly cool or brutally hot harvest weather or damaging hail storms are virtually forgotten, as the body has a short memory for pain. At the same time, as the wines themselves mature and are transformed, they reveal themselves to be less extreme after all, until at some point it can be next to impossible to find the insanity of the vintage in the bottle. I’ve seen these patterns play out again and again in temperate wine-growing areas like Bordeaux, Burgundy and northern Italy—and even in normally hot, bone-dry growing regions. Two thousand eight was such a year for California’s North Coast.

Winemaker Tod Mostero was quick to point out that although 2008 was tough from a viticultural standpoint, it was relatively easy from a winemaker's point of view. Yes, there was variation in the flowering, but the berries were small, the summer was warm, and the estate finished the harvest relatively early. "The vinifications were fast and easy, both alcoholic and malolactic, we got good fruit purity and soft tannins, and there's little in the way of herbal or tea flavors in 2008," he explained. Two thousand nine was very different from 2008, with late rains into May, a mild summer without many extremes, and a slightly longer vegetative cycle than 2008. "Bud break, bloom and veraison all came suddenly," he went on. "September was warm but not excessively hot and there was no need to rush. And then the fruit ripeness came quickly between October 5 and 12. We picked on eight consecutive days and were lucky to get our fruit in before it rained 4.5 inches on the night of the 12th. Incidentally, following the substantial planting that has taken place here in recent years, there is no longer any merlot on the property.

Within two years, Christian Moueix will have replanted all the vines of the historic Napanook Vineyard in Yountville, mostly to cabernet sauvignon. The malbec is now gone, and little merlot remains. Mouiex, who was in NapaValley at the time of my visit, noted that production in 2008 was the smallest ever, due partly to the very dry and erratic growing season but also to the fact that the property is now at the low point of production due to the replanting program. Moueix views the 2006 Dominus as a powerful wine but with suave tannins, while 2007 shows the "finer side of the vintage." The 2008 vintage is actually higher in polyphenols than 2007, said winemaker Tod Mostero, "but the tannins are soft and round, as we are now using much less press wine." Incidentally, Moueix recently purchased the Schmidt Ranch property a mile north of Dominus and will offer a new cabernet-based wine from the 2009 vintage.

Within two years, Christian Moueix will have replanted all the vines of the historic Napanook Vineyard in Yountville, mostly to cabernet sauvignon. The malbec is now gone, and little merlot remains. Mouiex, who was in NapaValley at the time of my visit, noted that production in 2008 was the smallest ever, due partly to the very dry and erratic growing season but also to the fact that the property is now at the low point of production due to the replanting program. Moueix views the 2006 Dominus as a powerful wine but with suave tannins, while 2007 shows the "finer side of the vintage." The 2008 vintage is actually higher in polyphenols than 2007, said winemaker Tod Mostero, "but the tannins are soft and round, as we are now using much less press wine." Incidentally, Moueix recently purchased the Schmidt Ranch property a mile north of Dominus and will offer a new cabernet-based wine from the 2009 vintage.

Winemaker Ted Mostero described the 2006 growing season as presenting "an almost ideal profile": cold, wet weather in early spring; a late budbreak; a very hot July featuring ten days with temperatures over 100degrees; and then a mild August and September. "We don't irrigate, and the conditions in 2006 were perfect for dry farming," he told me. "Those who watered their vines in July could have caused the berries to expand." The summer of 2007 also featured a relatively cool July and August, Mostero went on, but then a heat spike began on August 29, and there was another period of heat toward the end of September that helped to finish off the ripening process. Incidentally, Dominus began using a Mistral sorting machine in 2007 to eliminate dried berries at harvest-time.

Winemaker Ted Mostero described the 2006 growing season as presenting "an almost ideal profile": cold, wet weather in early spring; a late budbreak; a very hot July featuring ten days with temperatures over 100degrees; and then a mild August and September. "We don't irrigate, and the conditions in 2006 were perfect for dry farming," he told me. "Those who watered their vines in July could have caused the berries to expand." The summer of 2007 also featured a relatively cool July and August, Mostero went on, but then a heat spike began on August 29, and there was another period of heat toward the end of September that helped to finish off the ripening process. Incidentally, Dominus began using a Mistral sorting machine in 2007 to eliminate dried berries at harvest-time.

This estate is steadily switching to a shorter canopy, which typically results in a gain of one degree Brix, according to winemaker Boris Champy. But Dominus is also trying to keep some shade on the grapes to protect them from broiling in the sun. Champy noted that the team did a lot of crop thinning in 2005 and that this paid off with greater intensity of flavor. This vintage looks to be a winner here.

This estate is steadily switching to a shorter canopy, which typically results in a gain of one degree Brix, according to winemaker Boris Champy. But Dominus is also trying to keep some shade on the grapes to protect them from broiling in the sun. Champy noted that the team did a lot of crop thinning in 2005 and that this paid off with greater intensity of flavor. This vintage looks to be a winner here.

Winemaker Boris Champy describes 2004 as a very dry year during which the vines had to live on their water reserves (the estate does not irrigate, nor does it remove leaves during the summer). One block of young vines really suffered in 2004, and by 2005, Champy added, the roots of our vines had gone deeper. Not surprisingly, yields in 2004 were very low by Dominus standards-averaging about 2. 5 tons per acre, which Champy describes as "like 2002, even if the 2004 vintage does not show the same flavor intensity. "Still, he added, owner Christian Moueix prefers the 2003 Dominus to the 2002.

Winemaker Boris Champy describes 2004 as a very dry year during which the vines had to live on their water reserves (the estate does not irrigate, nor does it remove leaves during the summer). One block of young vines really suffered in 2004, and by 2005, Champy added, the roots of our vines had gone deeper. Not surprisingly, yields in 2004 were very low by Dominus standards-averaging about 2. 5 tons per acre, which Champy describes as "like 2002, even if the 2004 vintage does not show the same flavor intensity. "Still, he added, owner Christian Moueix prefers the 2003 Dominus to the 2002.

Inclement weather during bloom and temperature fluctuations later in the season cut the crop level to 1.8 to 2.8 tons per acre and yielded wines with strong dry extract and tannic backbone in 2002, according to winemaker Boris Champy.Acid levels were also very high by Dominus standards, he added.Following a cold, rainy April and a very late budbreak, Champy added, the 2003 harvest was very late, with the estate picking into November.Although the merlot berries were large, the skins in 2003 were, on average, riper than those of the previous year.Still, Champy notes that the estate does not consider '02, '03 or '04 to be "fantastic" vintages in the quality league of 2001, 1997 and 1994.

Inclement weather during bloom and temperature fluctuations later in the season cut the crop level to 1.8 to 2.8 tons per acre and yielded wines with strong dry extract and tannic backbone in 2002, according to winemaker Boris Champy.Acid levels were also very high by Dominus standards, he added.Following a cold, rainy April and a very late budbreak, Champy added, the 2003 harvest was very late, with the estate picking into November.Although the merlot berries were large, the skins in 2003 were, on average, riper than those of the previous year.Still, Champy notes that the estate does not consider '02, '03 or '04 to be "fantastic" vintages in the quality league of 2001, 1997 and 1994.

Winemaker Boris Champy made it clear that Christian Moueix and his team at Dominus prefer the 2001 vintage to 2002. The small yield and warm harvest of 2001 gave very intense, tannic wines," said Champy. But the tannins are of very high quality, and the wine seems approachable already. A great wine is great from the beginning, and the 2001 Dominus should age a long time based on the nobility of its tannins."In comparison, Champy added, the 2002 offers excellent intensity, but not the same finesse of tannins. The fruit was picked after a heat wave, with higher potential alcohol than the 2001 but also slightly higher acidity. In fact, he added, it has the highest acidity of any vintage here since 1996. The finished 2001, on the other hand, features the lowest acids and highest pH ever recorded at Dominus. Following a relatively cool summer of '01, the fruit enjoyed protracted hang time. It's a classic, ripe, Right Bank style of vintage," said Champy. And yet we picked at 24 degrees brix, a level of potential alcohol that most people around here would consider low."

Hatched comes strongly recommended. It might lack the luxurious accouterments you might expect from a restaurant. You could argue that it is stripped down to the fundaments: the quality of service and quality of food. Inconveniently, it is not located close to any tube station, off the beaten trek, so either grab a cab or give your legs a workout. Trust me, the Pain Perdu alone is worth it.

Winemaker Boris Champy made it clear that Christian Moueix and his team at Dominus prefer the 2001 vintage to 2002. The small yield and warm harvest of 2001 gave very intense, tannic wines," said Champy. But the tannins are of very high quality, and the wine seems approachable already. A great wine is great from the beginning, and the 2001 Dominus should age a long time based on the nobility of its tannins."In comparison, Champy added, the 2002 offers excellent intensity, but not the same finesse of tannins. The fruit was picked after a heat wave, with higher potential alcohol than the 2001 but also slightly higher acidity. In fact, he added, it has the highest acidity of any vintage here since 1996. The finished 2001, on the other hand, features the lowest acids and highest pH ever recorded at Dominus. Following a relatively cool summer of '01, the fruit enjoyed protracted hang time. It's a classic, ripe, Right Bank style of vintage," said Champy. And yet we picked at 24 degrees brix, a level of potential alcohol that most people around here would consider low."

Christian Moueix, whose late-winter visit to Dominus coincided with my own tour of the North Coast, told me that 1999 and 2000 both featured drawn-out periods of flowering. The '99, he says, is the more structured of the two vintages, with smaller berries and more tannins having produced a more austere wine. The 2000, in comparison, is a fruitier style, with a "normal" skin-to-juice ratio.

Christian Moueix, whose late-winter visit to Dominus coincided with my own tour of the North Coast, told me that 1999 and 2000 both featured drawn-out periods of flowering. The '99, he says, is the more structured of the two vintages, with smaller berries and more tannins having produced a more austere wine. The 2000, in comparison, is a fruitier style, with a "normal" skin-to-juice ratio.

Enologist Boris Champy describes 1998 as a moderately ripe year in which the terroir doesn't really express itself. Nineteen ninety-nine was similarly cool but was also dryer, he noted. "We did a lot of crop-thinning and there were also small berries in '99, with the result that we had very low yields and a good concentration of tannins. Acids were actually higher than those of the previous year." The 2000 growing season was perfect "on paper," he told me, although a hot spell in early June followed by cooler weather extended the flowering and required crop-thinning to even out fruit ripeness.

Enologist Boris Champy describes 1998 as a moderately ripe year in which the terroir doesn't really express itself. Nineteen ninety-nine was similarly cool but was also dryer, he noted. "We did a lot of crop-thinning and there were also small berries in '99, with the result that we had very low yields and a good concentration of tannins. Acids were actually higher than those of the previous year." The 2000 growing season was perfect "on paper," he told me, although a hot spell in early June followed by cooler weather extended the flowering and required crop-thinning to even out fruit ripeness.

Among the developments here in the last year: the replanting to cabernet of the old chardonnay vines between the winery and Highway 29, and the installation of an electronic gate to stop the constant flow of walk-in visitors. According to enologist Boris Champy, both '99 and '98 brought difficult conditions for Dominus, although '99 was the drier year. It took substantial crop thinning to ripen the fruit, including a second thinning (what Champy called a toilettage or cleaning) at the end of August. The '98 harvest extended from September 20 to October 22, with a big gap in harvest dates between the merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Ultimately, nearly half of the estate's production was sold off; my early look at the '98, tasted just after an egg white fining, suggests that all these sacrifices have resulted in a very strong wine for the vintage. The '97 has turned out superbly; the estate ranks it just behind the '91 and '94.

Among the developments here in the last year: the replanting to cabernet of the old chardonnay vines between the winery and Highway 29, and the installation of an electronic gate to stop the constant flow of walk-in visitors. According to enologist Boris Champy, both '99 and '98 brought difficult conditions for Dominus, although '99 was the drier year. It took substantial crop thinning to ripen the fruit, including a second thinning (what Champy called a toilettage or cleaning) at the end of August. The '98 harvest extended from September 20 to October 22, with a big gap in harvest dates between the merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Ultimately, nearly half of the estate's production was sold off; my early look at the '98, tasted just after an egg white fining, suggests that all these sacrifices have resulted in a very strong wine for the vintage. The '97 has turned out superbly; the estate ranks it just behind the '91 and '94.

The selection for the grand vin is essentially by vineyard block, with a few favored sites regularly making up the core of the blend. Each year a virtual yes/no decision is made on the estate capricious merlot (in for '97, almost completely out in '96); the cabernet franc, says Christian Moueix, usually makes the cut. "The petit verdot is a major plus in small quantities in a big year," Moueix adds, "while in a small year a fairly large portion of cabernet franc contributes body and flesh." Production of Dominus's second wine, labeled as Napanook, will rise to 6,000 cases in the '97 vintage, but the estate is still a seller of fruit and bulk wine. On my most recent visit to the estate, Moueix hosted a vertical tasting of all Dominus vintages back to 1987, the year he describes as "our first very good vintage." I will publish complete tasting notes on these wines in an upcoming issue.

"In Bordeaux," says general manager Jean-Marie Maureze, "when we get to 13% our fruit is ripe. But here, at 13% potential alcohol you still have a green taste." Still, he adds, overmaturity of fruit in Napa Valley is a big problem: "We normally have no more than two days to pick perfectly ripe fruit before it begins to become overripe." Now that the spacious new winery is in operation, Dominus will be able to offer a second wine, based on cabernet sauvignon, beginning with the '97 vintage.

Christian Moueix California adventure was not always as excellent as it is today. In fact, Moueix, who is his own toughest critic, is remarkably candid on the early vintages of Dominus, made from the Napanook Vineyard on the western side of Napa Valley outside Yountville: "1983 and 1984 don't count. In '85 we used some press wine and made some mistakes. 1986 I don't like too much. 1987 was the first very good vintage. 1988 wasn't ripe enough. 1989 was a September with rain, and we made a rather Bordeaux-styled wine. 1990 was the second turning point; here is where we started making richer and riper wine." Beginning with the 1990, a favored new parcel of young vines went into the grand vin, and the fruit was generally harvested riper to minimize vegetal character and to get more thoroughly ripe tannins. Another new block was introduced in '94, and this parcel has helped to further soften and enrich the wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D While the wines of the '80s are a mixed bag, especially the vintages prior to 1987, there have been spectacular successes here during the decade of the '90s. The '91 and '94 are among the great cabernet-based wines produced to date in California and simply must be tasted by Bordeaux lovers outside the U.S.x000D x000D x000D x000D In 1995, more convinced than ever about the quality of his site, Moueix bought out his original partners in the venture, Robin Lail and Robin Smith (the daughters of John Daniel, whose Inglenook Vineyard made a string of legendary "cask cabernets" in the 1940s and '50s partly or mostly from Napanook Vineyard fruit). In '97 Moueix constructed a state-of-the-art winery on the 140-acre property (122 acres are under vine) that has enabled Dominus to vinify more of its own fruit, and to introduce a second wine, Napanook. Moueix is intimately involved in operations at Dominus, flying over from his base in Libourne every three months or so. Moueix's Bordeaux enologist Jean-Claude Berrouet visits Dominus every winter to help Napa-based enologist Boris Champy create the final blend for the new wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D In recent vintages, Dominus has generally featured about 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 5% merlot and 5% petit verdot. Since 1996, much of the declassified material has gone into the Napanook bottling. About 6,000 to 8,000 cases of Dominus are made each year; 2,000 cases of Napanook were bottled in '96, and production rose to 4,000 in '97. I tasted the following vintages of Dominus with Moueix at the estate in early March.

The selection for the grand vin is essentially by vineyard block, with a few favored sites regularly making up the core of the blend. Each year a virtual yes/no decision is made on the estate capricious merlot (in for '97, almost completely out in '96); the cabernet franc, says Christian Moueix, usually makes the cut. "The petit verdot is a major plus in small quantities in a big year," Moueix adds, "while in a small year a fairly large portion of cabernet franc contributes body and flesh." Production of Dominus's second wine, labeled as Napanook, will rise to 6,000 cases in the '97 vintage, but the estate is still a seller of fruit and bulk wine. On my most recent visit to the estate, Moueix hosted a vertical tasting of all Dominus vintages back to 1987, the year he describes as "our first very good vintage." I will publish complete tasting notes on these wines in an upcoming issue.

"In Bordeaux," says general manager Jean-Marie Maureze, "when we get to 13% our fruit is ripe. But here, at 13% potential alcohol you still have a green taste." Still, he adds, overmaturity of fruit in Napa Valley is a big problem: "We normally have no more than two days to pick perfectly ripe fruit before it begins to become overripe." Now that the spacious new winery is in operation, Dominus will be able to offer a second wine, based on cabernet sauvignon, beginning with the '97 vintage.

Christian Moueix California adventure was not always as excellent as it is today. In fact, Moueix, who is his own toughest critic, is remarkably candid on the early vintages of Dominus, made from the Napanook Vineyard on the western side of Napa Valley outside Yountville: "1983 and 1984 don't count. In '85 we used some press wine and made some mistakes. 1986 I don't like too much. 1987 was the first very good vintage. 1988 wasn't ripe enough. 1989 was a September with rain, and we made a rather Bordeaux-styled wine. 1990 was the second turning point; here is where we started making richer and riper wine." Beginning with the 1990, a favored new parcel of young vines went into the grand vin, and the fruit was generally harvested riper to minimize vegetal character and to get more thoroughly ripe tannins. Another new block was introduced in '94, and this parcel has helped to further soften and enrich the wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D While the wines of the '80s are a mixed bag, especially the vintages prior to 1987, there have been spectacular successes here during the decade of the '90s. The '91 and '94 are among the great cabernet-based wines produced to date in California and simply must be tasted by Bordeaux lovers outside the U.S.x000D x000D x000D x000D In 1995, more convinced than ever about the quality of his site, Moueix bought out his original partners in the venture, Robin Lail and Robin Smith (the daughters of John Daniel, whose Inglenook Vineyard made a string of legendary "cask cabernets" in the 1940s and '50s partly or mostly from Napanook Vineyard fruit). In '97 Moueix constructed a state-of-the-art winery on the 140-acre property (122 acres are under vine) that has enabled Dominus to vinify more of its own fruit, and to introduce a second wine, Napanook. Moueix is intimately involved in operations at Dominus, flying over from his base in Libourne every three months or so. Moueix's Bordeaux enologist Jean-Claude Berrouet visits Dominus every winter to help Napa-based enologist Boris Champy create the final blend for the new wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D In recent vintages, Dominus has generally featured about 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 5% merlot and 5% petit verdot. Since 1996, much of the declassified material has gone into the Napanook bottling. About 6,000 to 8,000 cases of Dominus are made each year; 2,000 cases of Napanook were bottled in '96, and production rose to 4,000 in '97. I tasted the following vintages of Dominus with Moueix at the estate in early March.

"In Bordeaux," says general manager Jean-Marie Maureze, "when we get to 13% our fruit is ripe. But here, at 13% potential alcohol you still have a green taste." Still, he adds, overmaturity of fruit in Napa Valley is a big problem: "We normally have no more than two days to pick perfectly ripe fruit before it begins to become overripe." Now that the spacious new winery is in operation, Dominus will be able to offer a second wine, based on cabernet sauvignon, beginning with the '97 vintage.

Christian Moueix California adventure was not always as excellent as it is today. In fact, Moueix, who is his own toughest critic, is remarkably candid on the early vintages of Dominus, made from the Napanook Vineyard on the western side of Napa Valley outside Yountville: "1983 and 1984 don't count. In '85 we used some press wine and made some mistakes. 1986 I don't like too much. 1987 was the first very good vintage. 1988 wasn't ripe enough. 1989 was a September with rain, and we made a rather Bordeaux-styled wine. 1990 was the second turning point; here is where we started making richer and riper wine." Beginning with the 1990, a favored new parcel of young vines went into the grand vin, and the fruit was generally harvested riper to minimize vegetal character and to get more thoroughly ripe tannins. Another new block was introduced in '94, and this parcel has helped to further soften and enrich the wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D While the wines of the '80s are a mixed bag, especially the vintages prior to 1987, there have been spectacular successes here during the decade of the '90s. The '91 and '94 are among the great cabernet-based wines produced to date in California and simply must be tasted by Bordeaux lovers outside the U.S.x000D x000D x000D x000D In 1995, more convinced than ever about the quality of his site, Moueix bought out his original partners in the venture, Robin Lail and Robin Smith (the daughters of John Daniel, whose Inglenook Vineyard made a string of legendary "cask cabernets" in the 1940s and '50s partly or mostly from Napanook Vineyard fruit). In '97 Moueix constructed a state-of-the-art winery on the 140-acre property (122 acres are under vine) that has enabled Dominus to vinify more of its own fruit, and to introduce a second wine, Napanook. Moueix is intimately involved in operations at Dominus, flying over from his base in Libourne every three months or so. Moueix's Bordeaux enologist Jean-Claude Berrouet visits Dominus every winter to help Napa-based enologist Boris Champy create the final blend for the new wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D In recent vintages, Dominus has generally featured about 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 5% merlot and 5% petit verdot. Since 1996, much of the declassified material has gone into the Napanook bottling. About 6,000 to 8,000 cases of Dominus are made each year; 2,000 cases of Napanook were bottled in '96, and production rose to 4,000 in '97. I tasted the following vintages of Dominus with Moueix at the estate in early March.

Christian Moueix California adventure was not always as excellent as it is today. In fact, Moueix, who is his own toughest critic, is remarkably candid on the early vintages of Dominus, made from the Napanook Vineyard on the western side of Napa Valley outside Yountville: "1983 and 1984 don't count. In '85 we used some press wine and made some mistakes. 1986 I don't like too much. 1987 was the first very good vintage. 1988 wasn't ripe enough. 1989 was a September with rain, and we made a rather Bordeaux-styled wine. 1990 was the second turning point; here is where we started making richer and riper wine." Beginning with the 1990, a favored new parcel of young vines went into the grand vin, and the fruit was generally harvested riper to minimize vegetal character and to get more thoroughly ripe tannins. Another new block was introduced in '94, and this parcel has helped to further soften and enrich the wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D While the wines of the '80s are a mixed bag, especially the vintages prior to 1987, there have been spectacular successes here during the decade of the '90s. The '91 and '94 are among the great cabernet-based wines produced to date in California and simply must be tasted by Bordeaux lovers outside the U.S.x000D x000D x000D x000D In 1995, more convinced than ever about the quality of his site, Moueix bought out his original partners in the venture, Robin Lail and Robin Smith (the daughters of John Daniel, whose Inglenook Vineyard made a string of legendary "cask cabernets" in the 1940s and '50s partly or mostly from Napanook Vineyard fruit). In '97 Moueix constructed a state-of-the-art winery on the 140-acre property (122 acres are under vine) that has enabled Dominus to vinify more of its own fruit, and to introduce a second wine, Napanook. Moueix is intimately involved in operations at Dominus, flying over from his base in Libourne every three months or so. Moueix's Bordeaux enologist Jean-Claude Berrouet visits Dominus every winter to help Napa-based enologist Boris Champy create the final blend for the new wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D In recent vintages, Dominus has generally featured about 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 5% merlot and 5% petit verdot. Since 1996, much of the declassified material has gone into the Napanook bottling. About 6,000 to 8,000 cases of Dominus are made each year; 2,000 cases of Napanook were bottled in '96, and production rose to 4,000 in '97. I tasted the following vintages of Dominus with Moueix at the estate in early March.

Christian Moueix California adventure was not always as excellent as it is today. In fact, Moueix, who is his own toughest critic, is remarkably candid on the early vintages of Dominus, made from the Napanook Vineyard on the western side of Napa Valley outside Yountville: "1983 and 1984 don't count. In '85 we used some press wine and made some mistakes. 1986 I don't like too much. 1987 was the first very good vintage. 1988 wasn't ripe enough. 1989 was a September with rain, and we made a rather Bordeaux-styled wine. 1990 was the second turning point; here is where we started making richer and riper wine." Beginning with the 1990, a favored new parcel of young vines went into the grand vin, and the fruit was generally harvested riper to minimize vegetal character and to get more thoroughly ripe tannins. Another new block was introduced in '94, and this parcel has helped to further soften and enrich the wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D While the wines of the '80s are a mixed bag, especially the vintages prior to 1987, there have been spectacular successes here during the decade of the '90s. The '91 and '94 are among the great cabernet-based wines produced to date in California and simply must be tasted by Bordeaux lovers outside the U.S.x000D x000D x000D x000D In 1995, more convinced than ever about the quality of his site, Moueix bought out his original partners in the venture, Robin Lail and Robin Smith (the daughters of John Daniel, whose Inglenook Vineyard made a string of legendary "cask cabernets" in the 1940s and '50s partly or mostly from Napanook Vineyard fruit). In '97 Moueix constructed a state-of-the-art winery on the 140-acre property (122 acres are under vine) that has enabled Dominus to vinify more of its own fruit, and to introduce a second wine, Napanook. Moueix is intimately involved in operations at Dominus, flying over from his base in Libourne every three months or so. Moueix's Bordeaux enologist Jean-Claude Berrouet visits Dominus every winter to help Napa-based enologist Boris Champy create the final blend for the new wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D In recent vintages, Dominus has generally featured about 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 5% merlot and 5% petit verdot. Since 1996, much of the declassified material has gone into the Napanook bottling. About 6,000 to 8,000 cases of Dominus are made each year; 2,000 cases of Napanook were bottled in '96, and production rose to 4,000 in '97. I tasted the following vintages of Dominus with Moueix at the estate in early March.

Christian Moueix California adventure was not always as excellent as it is today. In fact, Moueix, who is his own toughest critic, is remarkably candid on the early vintages of Dominus, made from the Napanook Vineyard on the western side of Napa Valley outside Yountville: "1983 and 1984 don't count. In '85 we used some press wine and made some mistakes. 1986 I don't like too much. 1987 was the first very good vintage. 1988 wasn't ripe enough. 1989 was a September with rain, and we made a rather Bordeaux-styled wine. 1990 was the second turning point; here is where we started making richer and riper wine." Beginning with the 1990, a favored new parcel of young vines went into the grand vin, and the fruit was generally harvested riper to minimize vegetal character and to get more thoroughly ripe tannins. Another new block was introduced in '94, and this parcel has helped to further soften and enrich the wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D While the wines of the '80s are a mixed bag, especially the vintages prior to 1987, there have been spectacular successes here during the decade of the '90s. The '91 and '94 are among the great cabernet-based wines produced to date in California and simply must be tasted by Bordeaux lovers outside the U.S.x000D x000D x000D x000D In 1995, more convinced than ever about the quality of his site, Moueix bought out his original partners in the venture, Robin Lail and Robin Smith (the daughters of John Daniel, whose Inglenook Vineyard made a string of legendary "cask cabernets" in the 1940s and '50s partly or mostly from Napanook Vineyard fruit). In '97 Moueix constructed a state-of-the-art winery on the 140-acre property (122 acres are under vine) that has enabled Dominus to vinify more of its own fruit, and to introduce a second wine, Napanook. Moueix is intimately involved in operations at Dominus, flying over from his base in Libourne every three months or so. Moueix's Bordeaux enologist Jean-Claude Berrouet visits Dominus every winter to help Napa-based enologist Boris Champy create the final blend for the new wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D In recent vintages, Dominus has generally featured about 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 5% merlot and 5% petit verdot. Since 1996, much of the declassified material has gone into the Napanook bottling. About 6,000 to 8,000 cases of Dominus are made each year; 2,000 cases of Napanook were bottled in '96, and production rose to 4,000 in '97. I tasted the following vintages of Dominus with Moueix at the estate in early March.

Christian Moueix California adventure was not always as excellent as it is today. In fact, Moueix, who is his own toughest critic, is remarkably candid on the early vintages of Dominus, made from the Napanook Vineyard on the western side of Napa Valley outside Yountville: "1983 and 1984 don't count. In '85 we used some press wine and made some mistakes. 1986 I don't like too much. 1987 was the first very good vintage. 1988 wasn't ripe enough. 1989 was a September with rain, and we made a rather Bordeaux-styled wine. 1990 was the second turning point; here is where we started making richer and riper wine." Beginning with the 1990, a favored new parcel of young vines went into the grand vin, and the fruit was generally harvested riper to minimize vegetal character and to get more thoroughly ripe tannins. Another new block was introduced in '94, and this parcel has helped to further soften and enrich the wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D While the wines of the '80s are a mixed bag, especially the vintages prior to 1987, there have been spectacular successes here during the decade of the '90s. The '91 and '94 are among the great cabernet-based wines produced to date in California and simply must be tasted by Bordeaux lovers outside the U.S.x000D x000D x000D x000D In 1995, more convinced than ever about the quality of his site, Moueix bought out his original partners in the venture, Robin Lail and Robin Smith (the daughters of John Daniel, whose Inglenook Vineyard made a string of legendary "cask cabernets" in the 1940s and '50s partly or mostly from Napanook Vineyard fruit). In '97 Moueix constructed a state-of-the-art winery on the 140-acre property (122 acres are under vine) that has enabled Dominus to vinify more of its own fruit, and to introduce a second wine, Napanook. Moueix is intimately involved in operations at Dominus, flying over from his base in Libourne every three months or so. Moueix's Bordeaux enologist Jean-Claude Berrouet visits Dominus every winter to help Napa-based enologist Boris Champy create the final blend for the new wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D In recent vintages, Dominus has generally featured about 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 5% merlot and 5% petit verdot. Since 1996, much of the declassified material has gone into the Napanook bottling. About 6,000 to 8,000 cases of Dominus are made each year; 2,000 cases of Napanook were bottled in '96, and production rose to 4,000 in '97. I tasted the following vintages of Dominus with Moueix at the estate in early March.

Christian Moueix California adventure was not always as excellent as it is today. In fact, Moueix, who is his own toughest critic, is remarkably candid on the early vintages of Dominus, made from the Napanook Vineyard on the western side of Napa Valley outside Yountville: "1983 and 1984 don't count. In '85 we used some press wine and made some mistakes. 1986 I don't like too much. 1987 was the first very good vintage. 1988 wasn't ripe enough. 1989 was a September with rain, and we made a rather Bordeaux-styled wine. 1990 was the second turning point; here is where we started making richer and riper wine." Beginning with the 1990, a favored new parcel of young vines went into the grand vin, and the fruit was generally harvested riper to minimize vegetal character and to get more thoroughly ripe tannins. Another new block was introduced in '94, and this parcel has helped to further soften and enrich the wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D While the wines of the '80s are a mixed bag, especially the vintages prior to 1987, there have been spectacular successes here during the decade of the '90s. The '91 and '94 are among the great cabernet-based wines produced to date in California and simply must be tasted by Bordeaux lovers outside the U.S.x000D x000D x000D x000D In 1995, more convinced than ever about the quality of his site, Moueix bought out his original partners in the venture, Robin Lail and Robin Smith (the daughters of John Daniel, whose Inglenook Vineyard made a string of legendary "cask cabernets" in the 1940s and '50s partly or mostly from Napanook Vineyard fruit). In '97 Moueix constructed a state-of-the-art winery on the 140-acre property (122 acres are under vine) that has enabled Dominus to vinify more of its own fruit, and to introduce a second wine, Napanook. Moueix is intimately involved in operations at Dominus, flying over from his base in Libourne every three months or so. Moueix's Bordeaux enologist Jean-Claude Berrouet visits Dominus every winter to help Napa-based enologist Boris Champy create the final blend for the new wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D In recent vintages, Dominus has generally featured about 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 5% merlot and 5% petit verdot. Since 1996, much of the declassified material has gone into the Napanook bottling. About 6,000 to 8,000 cases of Dominus are made each year; 2,000 cases of Napanook were bottled in '96, and production rose to 4,000 in '97. I tasted the following vintages of Dominus with Moueix at the estate in early March.

Christian Moueix California adventure was not always as excellent as it is today. In fact, Moueix, who is his own toughest critic, is remarkably candid on the early vintages of Dominus, made from the Napanook Vineyard on the western side of Napa Valley outside Yountville: "1983 and 1984 don't count. In '85 we used some press wine and made some mistakes. 1986 I don't like too much. 1987 was the first very good vintage. 1988 wasn't ripe enough. 1989 was a September with rain, and we made a rather Bordeaux-styled wine. 1990 was the second turning point; here is where we started making richer and riper wine." Beginning with the 1990, a favored new parcel of young vines went into the grand vin, and the fruit was generally harvested riper to minimize vegetal character and to get more thoroughly ripe tannins. Another new block was introduced in '94, and this parcel has helped to further soften and enrich the wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D While the wines of the '80s are a mixed bag, especially the vintages prior to 1987, there have been spectacular successes here during the decade of the '90s. The '91 and '94 are among the great cabernet-based wines produced to date in California and simply must be tasted by Bordeaux lovers outside the U.S.x000D x000D x000D x000D In 1995, more convinced than ever about the quality of his site, Moueix bought out his original partners in the venture, Robin Lail and Robin Smith (the daughters of John Daniel, whose Inglenook Vineyard made a string of legendary "cask cabernets" in the 1940s and '50s partly or mostly from Napanook Vineyard fruit). In '97 Moueix constructed a state-of-the-art winery on the 140-acre property (122 acres are under vine) that has enabled Dominus to vinify more of its own fruit, and to introduce a second wine, Napanook. Moueix is intimately involved in operations at Dominus, flying over from his base in Libourne every three months or so. Moueix's Bordeaux enologist Jean-Claude Berrouet visits Dominus every winter to help Napa-based enologist Boris Champy create the final blend for the new wine.x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D In recent vintages, Dominus has generally featured about 80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, 5% merlot and 5% petit verdot. Since 1996, much of the declassified material has gone into the Napanook bottling. About 6,000 to 8,000 cases of Dominus are made each year; 2,000 cases of Napanook were bottled in '96, and production rose to 4,000 in '97. I tasted the following vintages of Dominus with Moueix at the estate in early March.