2004 Clos Vougeot
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Laurent describes the 2004s as less precise and pure than the 2001s owing to rot, oidium and hail, but he emphasized that the newer crop of wines is riper, especially the cuvees from later-harvested fruit. "It was important to press gently, and not to use the press wine," he told me, "and that's why I bought so little wine in 2004. "As a rule, Laurent used much less new oak to age the wines due to the harder tannins of the hailed-on fruit. At the time of our tasting, Laurent planned to cut his prices by up to 40% for this vintage. As in past vintages, the top wines here are of very high quality.
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