2006 Dolcetto Visadì

Domenico Clerico's new releases were being bottled as this issue went to press, but readers will find his wines from last year in the market. Clerico uses a high amount of new oak for his high-end Barolos, so it is no surprise he gives his Dolcetto a few months in oak as well.

Few producers' wines have given me as much pleasure over the years as those of Domenico Clerico. Based in Monforte, Clerico has been turning out spectacular Barolos since the mid-1980s. I find a spirituality and character in these wines that puts them in a class with few peers. The last few years have seen an evolution in Clerico's philosophy. He has gradually lengthened fermentation times and beginning with h is 2005s also backed off the 100% new oak, perhaps the one critic ism I have had of some wines in the past. For h is 2003 Barolos Clerico shortened the fermentation time by a few days. “Given that the grapes already had a lot of tannins, it was important not to over-extract,” says Clerico. “I used a high percentage of new oak for the Barolos. When we racked them, the wines aged in new oak turned out as I had hoped in that they were a little rounder than the wines aged in one-year old barrels. I am optim istic about 2003, the wines just need time for the tannins to soften. Look at what people said about the 1997s. The wines were supposed to fall apart, yet I think the best wines have held up beautifully.” Clerico fans can also look forward to a very prom ising series of Barolos for the 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages. The 2006s will include a new Barolo made from purchased Serralunga fruit. Readers who want to learn more about the h istory of the property may want to check out my article in the Italy Report section of this site.