2019 Volnay Clos de Verseuil 1er Cru

It is always a pleasure to meet winemakers again, but even more so with respect to Clerget since I had heard that Thibaud contracted Covid earlier this year. Thankfully he recovered, even though he told me that three months later his taste is yet to return 100%. “It is one of my favourite vintages,” Clerget told me as I broached his 2019s. “There was a lot of millerandage and I lost 50% of production during flowering. For the younger vines of Santenots there was a little grillure_ during the summer and are planted on 161-49 rootstock that are dying [N.B This issue is broached in the second part of this report.] They will be pulled up soon. The 2019 vintage is the first vintage where I farmed organically, the first of three years in conversion that I am doing for myself, not for certification. The harvest began on 12 September and then we picked over the next five days compared to the starting date of 22 August, in 2020. We had a sorting table, then did a cold fermentation for 5 to 10 days and started the alcoholic fermentation using natural yeasts. We did just one or two pigeages for all the cuvaison, and then one or two remontage per day, plus one délestage. I find the wines very fresh and elegant, not with too much alcohol since I started on the optimal day. The maximum alcohol is 13.8° and they are mostly around 13.4°. The 2019 vintage is more an infusion vintage - we didn’t need to touch the grapes. All the reds were racked a month ago and I will probably bottle this December instead of later in March as the wines seem ready.” This was an excellent set of 2019s that will enhance Clerget’s reputation as one of Pommard’s go-to producers, even though his holdings lean more towards neighbouring Volnay! The highlights comprise yet another superb Clos Vougeot, a stunning Volnay Clos de Verseuil from Clerget’s monopole and an excellent Volnay Les Caillerets. These wines are extremely pure, beautifully poised but in keeping with the style of 2019, intense. I also tasted through Clerget’s bottled 2018s that are also impressive, and it will be intriguing to see which of the two vintages ultimately comes out on top. My hunch is both.