2012 Blanc Sancerre

Jean-Dominique and Jean-Laurent Vacheron have blown, like fresh air, a breath of biodynamics across their 48 hectares of vineyard since they took over the estate from their parents. In almost the same breath, they have turned it into one of the most respected estates in the region. Their cellars at the top of the hill in the middle of Sancerre have a romantic charm, but it is clear that they must use every corner of space available to realize their ambitions. Extremely classical in their winemaking style, they are more upbeat on 2011 than most of their colleagues, but all of their fellow producers agree that the magic fairy waved her wand over 2012, with their Les Romains being one the finest examples of that excellent vintage. Beyond the other lovely sauvignon blancs portrayed here, they also have 11 hectares of pinot noir and make some of the most admirable red wines of the central Loire, as the velvety 2010 Sancerre La Belle Dame amply attests. (North Berkeley Imports, www.northberkeleyimports.com; A Jon-David Headrick Selection, imported by European Cellars, www.europeancellars.com)