2009 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru
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2013 - 2018
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Servin began harvesting the 2009s on September 20th . The wines were mostly aged in steel, with the exception of the Cuvée Massale, Les Preuses, Bougros and Les Clos, which saw some oak, as described above. I tasted all of the 2009s from bottle except the Preuses and Clos, which were still in steel. The 2009s are quite rich and need a fair bit of aeration to show at their best. I tasted the 2010s from steel and/or cask, with the exception of the Vaillons, Montée de Tonnerre and Les Forêts, which were in bottle.
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As at some of the other top Chablis addresses I visit each year, this estate continues to refine its wines by adjusting its use of oak in various cuvees, both in response to the requirements of each new vintage and simply as a stylistic decision. As a result, these wines can be something of a moving target, although as a general rule I find much less evidence of the exotic, and sometimes a bit resiny, oak notes that occasionally plagued these wines as recently as six or seven years ago. Today's wines are cleaner than ever before but with no loss of their power or personality. Francois Servin told me that he uses a commercial yeast that produces a leisurely and relatively cool (20o to 22o C) fermentation, which gives the wines a more glyceral texture.
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