2021 Bourgogne Rouge

Nicolas Groffier, sporting a very chic gilet, is on hand to guide me through his 2021s at the resurgent Domaine Groffier.

“I didn’t use candles because I want healthy and strong vines that can recover quickly after frost. I prune Cordon Royat that tends to bud later and recovers better, so I managed to get 25hL/ha even after being fully frozen. In any case, the heat from candles only goes upwards into the air. I picked from 18 September over six days, and the average yield across the range was around 35hL/ha. All the cuvées were made with whole bunches. I prefer the stems not too ripe otherwise they become too dry and woody. This year, I found the yeast was not so efficient, so stems were useful in stabilising the must - I didn’t have confidence in the yeast. The wines are raised in 25% to 45% new oak, though there is no new wood in the Bourgogne Rouge, Passetoutgrain or Gevrey-Chambertin. Those wines have to have drinkability - vins de plaisir.”