2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er Cru

This Nuits Saint-Georges-based grower is on a roll. Brothers Denis and Bertrand Chevillon, the latter preferring to remain out of the limelight, have turned in a raft of exquisite wines over the last decade. Since the late 1990s, the wines have become increasingly refined, intense and pure, testified to by a 1995 Les Saint-Georges poured blind by Denis Chevillon that I felt was rustic compared to the 2017s just tasted. Part of the reason that Chevillon has become so consistent is the fact that their vineyards populate some of the appellation’s most propitious Premier Crus, eight across some 13 hectares. If you want a litmus test of how Nuits Saint-Georges performed in a given vintage, then Chevillon is the place to come. Denis Chevillon, a tall and broad-shouldered winemaker, describes 2017 as a “miracle vintage.” He commenced picking on September 6 and matured the Premier Crus in 30% new oak; three of his crus were already bottled by my visit in October 2018. The standout is a stunning Les Vaucrains. When we briefly chatted about the credentials for Les Saint-Georges becoming a Grand Cru, I suggested that maybe Les Vaucrains merits promotion just as much. Chevillon did not disagree. There are also impressive wines packed with fruit purity and mineralité from their parcels in Les Roncières, Les Pruliers and of course, Les Saint-Georges. Prices here mostly remain sane compared to others and the wines generally come recommended.