1998 Meursault Le Poruzots

Remi Jobard, who has been in charge of winemaking at the family domain since 1994 (his father Charles retired after the '96 vintage), has introduced a host of changes since then. At the outset, he switched to cordon de royat a system of training the vines used by such veteran growers as Fran?s Jobard and Jean-Francois Coche, but now being instituted by a growing number of top domains to limit yields. Jobard has also adopted a gentler, longer pressing designed to enable him to rack the wine directly to barrel without a decanting. In '98, for the first time, Jobard gave a few of his white wines an extended 16-month levage Grape sugars ranged widely in '99, from 12.5% for the Poruzots to 14.3% for the Charmes. These are very rich, classic Meursaults, occasionally on the cusp of overripeness.