2007 Meursault En Luraule

Among the new developments here: Jobard has 77 ares of Meursault Narvaux as of 2008, and beginning with 2011 the domain will be officially organic. On my June visit I focused on the 2007s from bottle as the 2008s were in mid-malo. Jobard described 2007 as a generous year, having yielded wines with "a lot of nervosite but also a lot of material." But he would not have said that during their elevage, he told me. "Early on, I compared 2007 to 2004, but now I think they're more like the 2005s in their length on the palate, even if they're not quite as hard on the attack," he explained. Jobard began harvesting on September 1, with what he described as "correct" sugar levels. He wondered out loud if he would have benefitted from picking five days later-or would have gotten flat wines. Based on my tasting in June, he made a good choice.

"I picked early in 2007, maybe too early," said Remi Jobard, who began on September 1 and chaptalized his musts up to a full degree (he began with potential alcohol between 12% and 12.5%). Jobard described the new set of wines as pure, minerally and very aromatic but quite dry, with no roundness or suppleness. "They're for the experienced Burgundy lover," he told me. Jobard believes that his very rich 2006s will be drinkable young, but that the '07s will need time. The '07s finished very dry, at no more than one gram per liter of residual sugar, according to Jobard. Incidentally, Jobard recently purchased about three-quarters of a hectare of vines in Meursault Narvaux.