2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Girard

This Usseglio brother flies under the radar while the Pierre Usseglio domain receives the lion's share of attention from American critics and consumers attention. That's a pity because the quality of wines from this estate's 23 hectares of vines (18 of them in Châteauneuf and the rest in vineyards designated as Côtes-du-Rhône) are consistently excellent, typically displaying forward, concentrated fruit and well-managed tannins. I've been surprised over the years at just how well the red Châteauneufs age given their assertive fruit and supple textures and it's worth noting that the white wines here reward patience as well. As might be expected, the '12s are round and relatively complex already but they also have the depth and balance for cellaring. Given the domain's style and the vintage's character, the question of whether to drink or hold will depend on the proclivities of the individual taster.