2006 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot
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"It was very complicated to decide on harvest dates in 2007," said Philippe Colin, who brought in chardonnay between September 2 and 11. (About 75% of his wine comes from domain vines, but Colin's team also does the vineyard work and harvests the parcels from which he purchases fruit.) He began with his Vergers, at 12.9% potential alcohol, but noted that his various cuvees ranged from 12% to as high as 13.5%. Colin told me he was surprised by the way the wines' acidity and emerging fat are marrying in barrel. Colin stirs the lees until the end of the malolactic fermentations but then stops. He harvested on the early side in 2006, a strategy that enabled him to make very nicely balanced wines. (Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, New York, NY; Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY)
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