1995 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Cru
France
Morey Saint Denis
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
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This was the first appointment on my two-week November tour, and following a month of tasting several hundred Rhone and California wines, I was knocked out by the precision and perfume of these Burgundies. Christophe Perrot-Minot '96s promise to be even stronger than his excellent '95s. He reports that despite slightly higher yields (roughly 45 h/h. vs. 40 the previous year), '96 produced denser wines than the previous vintage. Following his normal extended cold maceration (as much as 15 days for the grand crus), Perrot-Minot did more pigeage than usual with the '96s, and heated the must for even greater extraction. (During the hot harvest of '97, in contrast, he had to cool the cellar "nonstop" simply to extend the cold soak to 7-10 days.) The last malolactics did not end until October, and Perrot-Minot's old-vines cuvees show stunning potential. (Represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include V.O.S. Selections, Inc., New York, NJ)