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1996 Chambolle-Musigny Fuees

Wine Details
Place of Origin

France

Burgundy

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Pinot Noir

Vintages
200720062005200420032002200120001999199819971996
Reviews & Tasting Notes

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Christophe Perrot Minot, whose breakthrough vintage was 1995, bottled a stunning set of '96s whose strong acids, he believes, will enable them to last for 25 to 30 years. These are quintessential '96s: wines of great freshness, aromatic complexity and grip, with plenty of flesh to support their backbone. In 1997, Perrot Minot produced just 24 hectoliters per hectare, on average. While he does not consider the latter vintage a grand vin de garde, he believes it will hold well. Perrot Minot told me in November that he originally planned to bottle the vintage before the '98 harvest, "but I've tasted the wines every week, and they're not ready for bottling even now." Perrot Minot has an elaborate device that enables him to quickly and precisely chill his musts in order to do an extended cold soak before the fermentations begin. Thus, even under the very warm harvest conditions of '97, he was able to do a maceration a froid lasting a full week. (Represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include V.O.S. Selections, Inc., New York, NJ)

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This was the first appointment on my two-week November tour, and following a month of tasting several hundred Rhone and California wines, I was knocked out by the precision and perfume of these Burgundies. Christophe Perrot-Minot '96s promise to be even stronger than his excellent '95s. He reports that despite slightly higher yields (roughly 45 h/h. vs. 40 the previous year), '96 produced denser wines than the previous vintage. Following his normal extended cold maceration (as much as 15 days for the grand crus), Perrot-Minot did more pigeage than usual with the '96s, and heated the must for even greater extraction. (During the hot harvest of '97, in contrast, he had to cool the cellar "nonstop" simply to extend the cold soak to 7-10 days.) The last malolactics did not end until October, and Perrot-Minot's old-vines cuvees show stunning potential. (Represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include V.O.S. Selections, Inc., New York, NJ)