2006 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Pernot started harvesting chardonnay on September 2 in 2007 but stopped four times and didn't finish until September 15. He reported that yields were higher than those of 2006-in fact as high as 2004's. But he considers the new crop of wines to be more fleshy and more elegant than the '04s. Pernot says he picked too late in 2006 (some of his Bourgogne blanc came in with potential alcohol of 15.6%!), and describes these wines as "not my style. They are exotic wines that can be drunk early." He went on: "The 2005s, like wines from all great years, are closing down in bottle." (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; also brought into the U.S. as a Peter Vezan Selection and through Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs) Also recommended: Puligny-Montrachet (85).

"I started making wine in 1953 and 2006 brought the highest grape sugars I've ever seen," said veteran Paul Pernot. The crus are just under 14%, he added, and acidity levels are in the rather low 3.6 to 3.8 grams-per-liter range, without acidification. The 2006s were in barrels on their finings when I tasted them at the beginning of June, and Pernot planned to bottle them all at the beginning of July. Pernot believes that 2005 is the more classic vintage for him. "You can drink these wines after two or three years but they will age," he averred. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; also brought into the U.S. as a Peter Vezan Selection and through Domaines et Saveurs/Jeanne-Marie de Champs)