2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras

It had been a couple of years since I last visited this excellent producer that lies in the shadow of the church in Prémeux-Prissey. Patrice’s son Maxime was on hand to guide me through their 2019s. “We are lucky with the vintages from 2017 to 2020 – they are all very good. We are lucky with the weather except for the dry conditions. The vineyards are now maybe adapted to the global warming. We have a good concentration and balance with the acidity. The 2019 vintage is a vintage with a ‘9’ so it has form...except for the yields. They are around 30-40hl/ha in general. We commenced the picking on 14 September with the whites to keep the freshness and moderate the sugar levels. It is ever easy to decide. The sorting was just a formality as bunches were so healthy and we kept around 25-30% whole clusters - it is becoming more and more my taste. It is more interesting in this kind of vintage when you have good maturity, lends something floral, more mineralité. There is also less heat during alcoholic fermentation and slows it down. We did remontage at the beginning and pigeage when the density dropped over a two or three weeks cuvaison. Since 2018 we have used a small vertical press, just 800-kg [per load] that is very gentle. We used it for around 30 minutes for the reds. I think this is good for the Pinot Noir, especially with more full-bodied wines. The reds are in barrel. The lower appellations were bottled in December and the Village and Premier Crus will be bottled in March. It is a vintage that needs a longer élevage - the time after the malolactic fermentation is very important. We no longer add SO2 until after malo, which goes through quicker. We are using less new oak now, around 30% for the Village and Premier Cru with low toasting, barrels from the Raymond and Millard cooperages.”

Maxime is fine-tuning the modus operandi, for example, he later told me that they now cultivate grass between rows, not only to prevent soil erosion but to moderate temperatures. I asked his opinion on the last two vintages and he opined: “I prefer the 2019 vintage to 2018 as there is a small lack of acidity in the latter. I like the freshness and purity in 2019. The 2018s were more full-bodied but 2019...it is just more my style. I think the 2019s will show greatness with 5-10 years in bottle.”

I agree with every word. I always expect well-crafted, dare I say even soulful wines from Rion, but I was really taken by the purity and complexity of their 2019s. Their monopole Clos Saint-Marc riveted my feet to the spot with its tension and disarming silky texture, whilst the Clos des Argillières is only a small step behind. My feeling is that Rion’s wines deserve more kudos, so now is a perfect time to become acquainted. Quantities are small, but the good news is that from 2020 there are additions from Patrice’s side of the family that include Nuits Saint-Georges Au Barrière and Les Haut Pruliers 1er Cru, plus a tantalizing patch of Vosne-Romanée Beaumonts. I make sure I add another 15 minutes to next year’s visit.